With the exception of one or two towns they lack the symmetry of
scenery, the quaintness of costumes, the masterpieces of art that adapt
the provinces west of the Zuyder Zee to intensive sight-seeing, so to
speak, while their peoples differ in manner so much from those in the
west that you seem to be traveling through another country altogether.
Old buildings they have in plenty, and rural and urban beauty spots may
be discovered here and there, but taken by and large, they offer fewer
attractions for and cater less to the invasion of the tourist than any
portion of Holland.
For the above reason, in planning a trip through this land of the brave
and the home of the sea, it might be well, if practicable, to tap these
three provinces at the beginning, embellishing first impressions by
reversing the time-honored route and returning, instead of advancing,
through North and South Holland, Utrecht, North Brabant, and Zeeland,
and spending a profitable day at least on the Island of Walcheren as a
kind of tasteful cordial after the seven course tour.
Groningen, the capital of the province of the same name, shares
the distinction with Leyden and Utrecht in being one of the three
university towns in Holland. Although twice as large as Leeuwarden,
it is barely half as interesting. It seems, too, a vastly more
modern place, with its trolley service, its large assortment of wide
streets, its apparent dearth of silent canals, while its narrow, busy
Heerestraat emulates the examples set by the Kalverstraat in Amsterdam
and the Spuistraat in The Hague.
Its university, established in 1614, is attended by half a thousand
students, and has within recent years moved into more commodious and
modern quarters in the form of an appropriate and handsome building
erected in 1850. Among the treasures of its library, housed in a
separate building, is to be found a copy of the revised New Testament
by Erasmus, bearing marginal annotations in the handwriting of Martin
Luther. This much for learning. With respect to art, Groningen is the
birthplace of two of Holland’s best known modern painters, H. W. Mesdag
and Josef Israels, the latter being especially distinguished for his
ability to record upon canvas the sadder aspects of humble life. At the
advanced age of eighty-seven this master of his craft died during the
past summer in The Hague, where he had resided for a number of years.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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