Automobile travel; France -- Description and travel
We lunch at Rennes--a bustling, prosperous city of no interest save as
the theatre for the trial of Dreyfus the Jew. One meets with soldiers
everywhere in France and I have taken occasion to talk with many of
them concerning this man, famous, or infamous, as the case may be, and
from general to private I find but one opinion, "guilty." When I ask
what they make of Esterhazy and Pâté du Clam, they do not hesitate to
say that they were bought by the Jews, and that Dreyfus's entire case
has been governed by money from the chosen people. I was not surprised
at this opinion from the officers, but coming also from the rank and
file it was unexpected, to say the least.
It is early in the afternoon when St. Malo is reached and there we pass
the night, almost the only guests within the Hôtel de France.
All the world knows St. Malo, the ancient town on an island, where one
must have a room on the third floor in order to see over the walls.
Though it is picturesque as one approaches, St. Malo is gloomy and
depressing when one enters within its gates. The whole town reeks with
moisture and one is not tempted to remain, at least at this season.
The route from there onward lies over roads not in very good condition,
at least for France, though they would be considered prime in America.
In fact the sections of Brittany through which we have passed do
not possess the superb highways universal all over the rest of the
Republic, and her climate just now is rainy and cold, though the rain
is more of a mist from the sea. Occupying the long cape-like projection
lying between the stormy Bay of Biscay and the equally unquiet Channel,
she is swept by the winds of both, alternately, and at times it would
seem from both at the same moment. But when one enters Normandy, all
the land is as smiling as Touraine, and one goes on rejoicing. Brittany
is picturesque, but with a sad sort of picturesqueness. In all of
her churches you will find a catafalque ready for the dead, and she
knows all the wild, sad legends, and truths sadder than any legend, of
the neighbouring ocean. Normandy smiles at you seemingly happy. Her
valleys are all abloom with millions of fruit trees, and spring is well
advanced.
As we turn out towards Mont St. Michel, a fussy little train makes
great to-do over its no miles an hour and puffs indignantly as we,
leaving it far behind, speed on over the broad high dyke, which
connects St. Michel with the main land. On either side stretch the
sands over which, when the tide races in, it outstrips a fast horse,
but the sea is far out to-day, so far that its murmurs do not reach us,
and there is no sound save our own on-rushing.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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