Automobile travel; France -- Description and travel
Our route lies through Lisieux, a prosperous little city, earnestly
engaged in its own affairs, and having no time to waste on a passing
show like ourselves. But we note as we glide by that Lisieux possesses
a church and many bits of curious architecture that would interest, but
to-day is one of those days when it is good to be alive, when there
is great joy in motion, so we sail onward almost like the flight of a
great flamingo, onward and onward, until from the top of a hill the
Seine comes into view, winding through its fair valley on the way to
the sea; and, off in the other direction, with her spires glittering
in the sunlight, sits Rouen, the pride of all this region which would
appear to have placed the town in its centre, and arranged its hills
like a vast amphitheatre all around it, that the looker-on might the
better observe the pageant of history as it swept through the ancient
city. As we move onward and into her streets we discover that the Rouen
of to-day, while evidently a "member of one of our oldest families"
is not a dead town. The Seine sweeping through her midst bears on its
waters ships from all over the world as well as the quaint barges and
puffing little steamers which come down from Paris. The old walls have
vanished, giving place to wide boulevards, which encircle the ancient
town and are in turn surrounded by far-spreading suburbs. Light and
life is everywhere and the cafés over-flow far into the streets with
their little tables and merry throngs. Evidently the fortune of the
ancient city was great, for its heir of to-day is certainly in affluent
circumstances,--so that there is nothing of the sadness which envelops
so many of the ancient towns of the Republic, and yet few, if any, of
them preserve intact so much that belongs to the Middle Ages.
Leave the wide, gay boulevard by the river and enter any of the
adjoining streets and you slip at once backward for hundreds of
years,--large sections stand unchanged by the flight of time,--ancient
mansions gaze down upon you still bearing their coats of arms in
stone,--still showing the high peaked roofs and heavy carving of a
distant age.
Moving on, you will pass the exquisite Church of St. Maclou and at
last pause with a feeling of satisfaction before the majestic façade
of the great cathedral. This temple holds perfect beauty in its plan,
is a poem in stone, which satisfies the mind and the eye ever more
and more. When the traveller passes into the shadowy interior he is
forced to pause in deepest admiration. The majestic pillars of its
nave stretch away hundreds of feet before him until merged in one of
the most beautiful choirs in Europe; centuries old all of it, and
never having been restored it possesses that mellow beauty which only
the passage of the years can bestow, and the artist lingers long in
its shadows drinking in the charm around him, with scarcely a desire
to enter into an examination of details,--nor shall I attempt such
descriptions here.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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