Automobile travel; France -- Description and travel
Yes, yes, yes,--perhaps so, perhaps so, but, what is that to us? Leave
it all and move faster, into that square. Now,--stop.----What are all
the cotton mills of earth compared to this stately shrine? Look at
those three deeply recessed and majestic portals towering as high as an
ordinary church before you, the destroyer has passed them by and they
are crowded with statues, prominent amongst which, dividing the central
doors is that of the "Beautiful God of Amiens." Over the central
doorway is the Last Judgment in high relief,--the twelve Apostles, the
wise and foolish virgins. Yonder is the Virgin crushing a monster with
a human head, and above it the expulsion of Adam and Eve. One sees the
burial and assumption of the Virgin in another spot, and row after row
of kings, bishops, and priests, with the great towers rising far above
and equally rich in carvings to their very summit. There would appear
to be too much of carved work and yet the church is so huge that it
would look barren without it. Entering, you are at once impressed with
the vast dimensions, which are surpassed only by St. Peter's and the
Dom of Cologne. The nave rises one hundred and forty feet above you.
Its height and breadth are so great and the pillars so majestic that
one wonders whether this church was not built by and intended for a
larger, grander race of beings than we who now walk this earth.
Passing onward down the nave and into the choir, you are again struck
with the beauty and richness of the carvings both in the stalls in
wood and in the stone screens and altars, all around you. The rose
windows are glorious, and yet--you feel that you have dropped your
sense of delightful satisfaction somewhere. What is it,--why? It is
absurd to criticise such a temple, yet Amiens, notwithstanding its
majestic interior, does not fascinate, is not so satisfying as the
great churches of Rouen, and I think it is because there is too much
light. There, all is subdued; here a glare of white light detracts from
the majesty, if such a thing be possible. Certainly one shivers and is
cold and fully realises that ancient coloured glass has a wonderfully
beautifying effect in these old churches.
Amiens has her history also. Henry IV. from a seat up yonder watched
the retreat of the Spaniards and Isabeau of Bavaria here married the
idiot Charles VI.
There is nothing in the city to interest, save the cathedral, and I
come again and again, and finally take a swirling view as my auto
flashes around it, and off and away to the northward. As we move
farther and farther afield, I turn again and again to look backward and
each time the cathedral has risen higher and higher until it reigns
supreme in a kingdom all its own,--a thing not made by man.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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