The custom of washing clothes in rivulets or pools leads to some
difficulties in the profession of the _blanchisseuse_. It cannot be easy
to wash when there is no water possessing washable qualities. Cheerful
in this as in everything else, the women of Mentone are exemplary in
making the best of things. They will wash clothes in a dub which a dog
would not drink out of. Kneeling in a kind of basket, to keep their
knees from the stones, and using square lumps of white soap streaked
with green, like old Stilton cheese, they cluster in groups around pools
in the Borigo or Carei, and there carry on their operations. The pools
which have settled among the rubbish of the Carei, dirty and offensive
though they be, are the recognised washing-tubs of the town. Around one
favourite gutter, I one day reckoned as many as fifty-two washerwomen,
all kneeling as close to each other as possible, and all using the same
opaque frothy liquid. The sight of these bands of kneeling figures at
the outlet of the Carei, where a pool accumulates, after having served
the like purpose farther up the bed of rubbish, is about as
extraordinary as can be witnessed. How clothes can be cleansed by
washing in such puddles is somewhat incomprehensible. Persons knowing on
the subject ascribe all to the force of soap, and the detergent power of
fine air and sunshine in drying. The explanation is not very
satisfactory.
In this as in other toilsome occupations, the women of Mentone exhibit a
spirit of ceaseless and uncomplaining industry. Be the weather cold or
hot, there they are at their work. When frost put a film of ice on the
pools, they still continued their labours. Poor as the females evidently
are, they shew uncommon skill in the patching and mending of clothes.
The needle must be in frequent requisition, for nowhere is there to be
seen a ragged garment on man or woman. It does not detract from the
ingenuity of the needlewomen to say that, in patching, they do not
concern themselves greatly as to harmony of colour. A light patch on a
dark ground, or dark on a light ground, red upon blue, or any other
incongruity as it may happen, answers every required purpose. A square
patch of bright green on the back of a fisherman’s gray jacket, shews a
fine indifference to public opinion, and is rather amusing than
otherwise. The grand thing evidently is to overcome raggedness, no
matter about colour, and the design is fully realised. By the mending
process, garments of all sorts, masculine or feminine, are spun out to a
respectable longevity—that is to say, as long as they will hold decently
together. This thriftiness, I think, speaks well for the character of
the humbler classes. There is poverty, but no squalor. The only
unpleasing feature is street-begging. In all quarters we were beset by
mendicants. Public begging is doubtless forbidden, but where there is no
comprehensive method of succouring the necessitous, and no proper
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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