It might perhaps be argued that the cessation of donkey-traffic on
Sundays is as much due to commercial as to religious scruples. I am not
aware that any animals are kept ready for hire at the _Stations des
Anes_. These establishments are only dépôts for ass-saddles, where
orders can be executed. The donkeys come from the hills in the morning
laden with fruits or other articles, in charge of a female; and having
done what might be thought a fair day’s work, are ready for hire at the
_Stations_, to go on excursions with invalids on their backs to and from
places in the neighbourhood. As few visitors employ them on Sunday, it
may seem advantageous not to bring them to town on that day. If so, the
donkeys have reason to be thankful. These docile creatures, contriving
‘a double debt to pay,’ might be styled the true bread-winners of the
peasant proprietary. Travelling by pathways wholly inaccessible to
wheeled carriages, they are seen not only bringing down loads of native
produce, but carrying up stones, lime, and other building-materials to
places two thousand feet above the sea-level. But for these useful
animals, the hilly region would be in a great measure valueless. So far
as the Riviera is concerned, the ass must be considered to be a
beneficent gift of Nature.
CHAPTER VII.
In making excursions in the neighbourhood it is advisable not to attempt
too much in one day. During the season there is plenty time to take
things deliberately. A good beginning may be made by a forenoon walk to
the Monastery of the Annonciade, or Annunciata. It is situated on the
high ridge of the hill between the Carei and Borigo—that hill the front
promontory of which is defaced by the buff-coloured, box-like villa
dignified with the name of the Château Partouneaux. The pathway to the
monastery leads off from the Route de Turin, a short way beyond the
railway viaduct, and will be found a curious zigzag lane, fit only for
pedestrians or donkeys. To relieve the steepness, the path is formed
like a series of steps four to five feet broad, cut in a rude way in the
sandstone rock, and now much worn. Winding upward among olive and orange
trees, and passing some dwellings, the road has an antiquated
broken-down look, significant of the misfortunes of the religious
establishment to which it leads.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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