heat becomes excessive, it is not unusual for these hill-dwellers to
quit their small cottages, and live entirely in the open air. A whole
family will, gipsy-fashion, bivouac under one of the leafy boughs of a
fig-tree, and thus far exemplify in a European country the Asiatic usage
referred to in Scripture.
Gaining the summit of the _colline_, and passing through a forest of
pines, the path at length ascends the face of the mountains, becoming
continually more steep until the top of the pass is reached at the small
decayed village of Ste Agnes. The circumstance of snow occasionally
powdering the summit in winter, appears to have suggested the dedication
of the old church to Our Lady of the Snows. By a steep footpath, an
ascent may be made to the ruined château, which is perched on the rocky
peak. Tradition associates the ruin with a lady, canonised as Ste Agnes,
and a redoubtable Saracen chief, the occupant of the castle, whom she
Christianised; there is, however, no end of romantic legends of this
kind in the Riviera, and any one so inclined might fill a volume with
them. The fête of Ste Agnes takes place on the 21st of January, when a
miscellaneous concourse gathers for the occasion, some on foot, others
on donkeys, while ladies of infirm health are carried up in an
arm-chair—the carrying being managed by poles, on the principle of a
sedan. The ceremonies include a procession with a large _pomme d’or_, or
golden apple; and besides gifts of money, some devotees place an apple
covered with gold-leaf on the altar of the saint by way of offering. At
the termination of the ceremony, pieces of the apples are freely
distributed. M. Pessy, who mentions the fact, is unable to explain the
origin of this strange and ancient usage. The peak of Ste Agnes may be
considered as the central eminence in the wide semicircle of limestone
mountains which shelter Mentone from the north and north-western blasts.
It is not nearly the highest of the mountains, but it is prominent and
singularly picturesque. In a fine day, the view from it is magnificent,
the heights of Corsica being clearly outlined on the southern horizon.
We need say nothing special of excursions to Castellare, Castillon, the
lofty Berceau, the sunny knolls of Gorbio, Cabrole, or the quiet nooks
in the recesses of the different valleys. It is a common practice for a
party of visitors, ladies and gentlemen, to go off in the morning for
pic-nics to some choice spot, selected for its beauty. Seated under the
olive trees, the baskets borne by the donkey-boys are opened, and their
contents displayed. The grouping (faintly represented in the vignette
frontispiece) is sometimes made matter of tasteful arrangement, and the
_tableau vivant_, blended as to colour and figure, brings to remembrance
the pictures of Watteau.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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