Few will refrain from hiring a voiture to make a trip across the
frontier by the Pont St Louis, as far at least as that projecting part
of the mountains on which stands the old tower of Grimaldi. From the
level space in front of the hotels in the East Bay, the Corniche ascends
amidst gardens and villas until, at the distance of a mile, arriving at
the ravine of St Louis, it is carried by excavation along the face of
the precipice. It is really a grand work of art. The ravine, rugged and
singularly picturesque, is spanned by a bridge of a single arch,
connecting France and Italy. A rivulet trickling down the hollow is
conducted by artificial channels to the immediately adjoining gardens,
and issues some hundreds of feet below on the sea-beach. To have a
proper idea of the value of the road, we would need to walk along the
bottom of the cliffs bordering on the sea, making use of fragments of
that ancient Roman way which was the sole thoroughfare previous to the
construction of the Corniche. The walk is a scramble, with barely
footing for a single individual. It is, however, in various respects
worth seeing. We here have an opportunity of visiting several caverns in
the overhanging cliffs, in which bones and flint weapons of the
pre-historic era have been discovered, and may likewise see the arch of
a Roman bridge, which spans like an attenuated thread one of the
ravines.
The road from the Pont St Louis, cut by blasting out of the rocks, is
the finest part of the whole Corniche. On our left we have the huge
overhanging cliffs, and on our right the Mediterranean—view superb.
Tourists will remember that at the top of the ascent, the road wheels
round to the left, and becomes a little more tame in character. Just at
the point of turning, we are opposite the old tower, which had been a
residence of the Grimaldis. It resembles a Border keep, stuck high on
the side of the hill, with a good outlook seaward. Adjoining it, and
reached by an awkward pathway over some broken rocky ground encroached
upon by a quarry, is a garden made in the face of the steeps by Dr J. H.
Bennet. The thing is a marvel of artificial beauty. Five hundred feet
above the Mediterranean, and with incalculable labour and taste, has
this garden been established, ‘with a view to the cultivation of
flowers, and to the tranquil enjoyment of invalid lazaroni life.’ Such
is Dr Bennet’s own explanation of this singular garden among the rocks
of Grimaldi. On entering, you walk along an avenue with built pillars on
each side, whereon climbing plants are ingeniously trained. At my last
visit, the garden had been considerably extended by a fresh purchase of
rocks. Where the earth comes from, is at first sight a little puzzling.
It is discovered to consist of what through ages had accumulated amidst
small crevices in the gray limestone, and being carefully preserved when
making the pathways, is found to be of immense fertility. Dwellers in
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
Reviews
Reviews
No reviews yet
Be the first to share your thoughts on this work.
Elsewhere in the archive
Join the Discussion
Join the discussion
Sign in to leave a comment or review.
Sign InorCreate an account