Wintering in the Riviera: With Notes of Travel in Italy and France, and Practical Hints to TravellersMiller, William James
Philosophy
Wintering in the Riviera: With Notes of Travel in Italy and France, and Practical Hints to Travellers
Miller, William James
Europe -- Description and travel; Italy -- Description and travel; Provence (France); Riviera (France)
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On the promenade one sees a good deal of the peculiarities of the
different countries represented in Mentone, especially in the matter
of dress; and on this account, if for no other reason, it affords
opportunities for observation not without their interest. Let us
take a walk. It is, we shall suppose, the 21st December, the shortest
day, cold and shivery in the north, and verging to eleven o’clock of
the forenoon. The fishing operations of the morning are over, and
the boats engaged in it have been drawn up upon the beach. The water
carts, small wooden boxes drawn by men, have performed their rounds,
and the roadway is moist, but is rapidly drying up under the burning
beams of the hot sun; but the dust is laid. The sea is tranquil—not
a ripple disturbs it, except at the very edge, where it lazily turns
over in the tiniest of waves, as if the exertion implied far too much
fatigue for this melting day. A ship has ventured out of the harbour,
spreading its white sails in vain attempt to catch a breeze. A flock
of gulls are resting, in quiet happiness and contemplation, their
snowy bosoms on the glassy water. In the distance, bright Bordighera
is stretching its long green sleeve far into the blue sea, its fair
hand lighted by the sun; while its cathedral window, like a jewel
on the finger, catches and glistens with a blazing ray. Nearer, the
fortifications of Ventimiglia are peering round from behind a jutting
hill. Belinda, high and verdant; the gorge of St. Louis, deep in the
shade; and the lofty Berceau, just emerging into the solar beams, fill
up the near background, against which is cast the pier, terminated by
its old castle, and half concealing the little sheaf of masts which
it girdles, and bounded landward by a line of tall picturesque old
buildings, out of and above which the minarets of the town churches
gracefully rise. Then down along the promenade, on the one side, rests
the irregular and diversified line of hotels and houses and gardens,
partly filled with low trees, refreshing to the sight; while a low,
scrubby, ill–kept belt of evergreens, dusty and withered, strives at
some parts to guard the frontier on the other side against a careless
tumble down the bulwarks bordering the beach; and all along this level
road, common to man and to beast (for there is no footway), a crowd of
people is streaming. In the view of so much that is grand in nature,
we are at first hardly conscious of the concourse. We begin to move
down the promenade,—’cric–crac,’—turn the shoulder suddenly, and find
a _voiture_ has almost run us down. Neither man nor horse apologizes.
They pass on unheeding our well–merited indignation; and, as we cast a
fierce look and waste an English word, down comes another at full speed
with angry ‘crack, crack.’ Glad, like others, to jump unscathed away,
we are about to sit down upon one of the many wooden seats or forms
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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