Wintering in the Riviera: With Notes of Travel in Italy and France, and Practical Hints to TravellersMiller, William James
Philosophy
Wintering in the Riviera: With Notes of Travel in Italy and France, and Practical Hints to Travellers
Miller, William James
Europe -- Description and travel; Italy -- Description and travel; Provence (France); Riviera (France)
a damsel will glory in French attire, possibly a little Anglified.
Then other groups of equally unmistakeable French. Here and there a
solitary Frenchman steps out in full Parisian costume, with trig kid
gloves, high chimney–pot hat, and smart cane or white parasol. And
now and then a pale–looking young man, tended by an anxious sister or
still more anxious mother, walks slowly past. He has come too late
to obtain good. Had he come a year sooner, he might ere this, had it
been the Divine will, have regained his strength. All health resorts
abound with clergymen, particularly English and Scotch clergy—men of
all denominations, whose ministerial exertions seem to necessitate
occasional ‘retreats.’ Mentone is a favourite gathering–place for
them. Here comes one, with a broad, low–crowned wide–awake (clerical
undress), with white choker and lengthy surtout, his round face red
and jovial, and beaming with laughing jollity; and alongside of him
stalks a younger man of a sad and sallow countenance, whose greater
length of coat proves more veritable descent from the apostles. He has
just arrived from London, and is on his route to the great city of the
Italian king—perhaps hopes to have a secret meeting with the Pope. ‘I
can’t linger here,’ he says; ‘I am on my way to Rome.’ ‘Ay,’ replies
the older one, ‘so I see. I am content to remain here; half way, you
know—ha! ha!’ They stop a moment, shake hands, and as the younger
one turns carelessly to go, he nearly upsets an old fisherman with a
coil of ropes in his hand, a pending striped cowl on his head, and
clothed in a short wrought woollen coat and indescribable trousers,
patched, like the famous Delphian Boat, till no trace of the original
remains. One trouser leg is down, the other is drawn to the top, and
discloses a long, bare, dirty–looking, unwashed, hairy leg. The feet
are shoeless, the body spare, and the face pinched, as if he saw more
work than victuals, and browned, as if he handled more fish than
_savon_—in all likelihood the very personification of the fisherman of
Cæsar’s time. And now a nursery–maid with three lively little English
children toddle along, the young ones attired in Mentone hats of narrow
diameter, prettily decorated in worsted, but rather difficult articles
to attach to the head. Fortunately the wind does not blow. And now
jauntily trot up two riders—a young Englishman on a milk–white steed
and lady on a chestnut. They are off for a canter along the road to
Cape Martin. And then, as if in mockery, immediately follow an ass with
panniers, in each of which will be found planted a fat, chubby, small
child, looking dreamily contented or ignorantly happy, attended by
donkey–driver, pleased attentive nurse, proud mother, and a big little
brother with toy whip in hand astride another donkey. But here walks up
an old friend, a divinity professor, presumably of the Broad Church;
for is not the brim of his wide–awake broad enough to drive a coach and
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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