Wintering in the Riviera: With Notes of Travel in Italy and France, and Practical Hints to TravellersMiller, William James
Philosophy
Wintering in the Riviera: With Notes of Travel in Italy and France, and Practical Hints to Travellers
Miller, William James
Europe -- Description and travel; Italy -- Description and travel; Provence (France); Riviera (France)
One of those customs which Sterne could hardly have said were better
ordered in France, is the French mode of passing people when walking.
Instead of doing so upon the right hand, they pass upon the left, which
certainly does not appear to British people to be nearly so natural
as their own mode; and till the English stranger becomes habituated
to the foreign custom, it is not inapt to produce a startling, if
not a striking, method of seeing eye to eye. Similarly, a contrary
rule exists as regards horses and vehicles. It would be well if there
were one general system observed all over the world for walking and
driving. In sailing, I think there is already a universal rule. In
saluting, foreigners always lift the hat, be it to man or woman of
their acquaintance, making a very ceremonious swing of the chapeau,
but little inclination of the body, and no movement whatever of the
countenance, thus imparting the impression of a very superficial,
heartless politeness. Perhaps there may be more kindliness in the
practice, at Mentone and elsewhere, of every man or woman met in the
mornings in the hotel saluting you and expecting you to salute them
with a ‘Bon jour.’ At home in some rural districts a similar usage is
occasionally encountered.
I have not observed many beggars in France, but in Mentone, so close
upon Italy, there are some professional or regular mendicants always
hunting the promenade and other parts; while all the native children
have been taught a very evil custom, which many men and women also
practise, of coming up to visitors, holding out the hand and saying,
‘Donnez moi un sou,’ or simply, ‘Un sou’ (Give me a halfpenny); and
some visitors, unconscious of doing harm, give them sous. An American
gentleman told me he had given away 8 sous in a single forenoon, being
all that he had about him. The children do not require them, and it
teaches them a very bad lesson, sapping their independence. Sometimes
the method is varied by presenting bunches of wild–flowers, or by lying
in wait and tossing the bouquet into passing carriages; for which, of
course, they expect, if accepted, to be recompensed.
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Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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