Wintering in the Riviera: With Notes of Travel in Italy and France, and Practical Hints to TravellersMiller, William James
Philosophy
Wintering in the Riviera: With Notes of Travel in Italy and France, and Practical Hints to Travellers
Miller, William James
Europe -- Description and travel; Italy -- Description and travel; Provence (France); Riviera (France)
which they dress in their worst clothes; and it is well they do so. I
have seen an active young man knocked over and sucked in by the surf,
disappear for a moment, and come out dripping.
But wretched as this occupation is, there is a still more pitiable
phase of the fishing life, consisting in grown men—not one alone, but
many—angling the whole day with a long reed rod and a hook baited with
chewed bread. After enduring hours of waiting, during which their
hearts may have been rejoiced by glorious nibbles, they will entrap
some unfortunate little fish—generally a small sardine, only fit
to be tossed back into its element; while around the noble fisher,
various idle spectators are congregated, watching his float and deeply
interested in his success.
* * * * *
Another pursuit, curious in its mode, is that of the shepherd. Hardly
a morning passed but we saw an Italian shepherd standing about,
singularly attired in shaggy coat and rough knee–breeches, and a
species of stocking leggings, with a short, tawny–coloured Italian
cloak on his shoulder, and a long, conical, Italian wide–awake on
his head, the whole suit bearing traits of the wear of a lifetime.
Sometimes he was accompanied by a boy, a representation or copy in
miniature of the same; the copper–brown complexion and bright dark
eyes of both revealing them to be children of the sun. Near to them
on the hard stony beach, a flock of thin small sheep as gaunt–looking
as their herds were hobbling about on the stones and picking up dried
leaves and anything that once was green which they could find in this,
to them, barren land. He moves, and they follow. No dog scares them, or
collects or pursues them. They hear his voice and, as if affectionately
attached, obey. When they have traversed the beach, he produces a sack
and spreads upon the ground what looks like sawdust, but is probably
bran, which they eagerly devour. It would seem as if the sheep never
had a chance of browsing on the hillside, for I do not recollect ever
seeing a sheep upon the grass. Whence they come I know not, but their
food by the road is just the fallen leaves.
* * * * *
A better occupation than the fishing, although it is dependent on the
weather, is that of letting out donkeys. What we would regard as great
fortunes cannot, of course, be made out of the small remuneration which
the donkey people receive, but it seems enough to enable them to appear
respectable.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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