Wintering in the Riviera: With Notes of Travel in Italy and France, and Practical Hints to TravellersMiller, William James
Philosophy
Wintering in the Riviera: With Notes of Travel in Italy and France, and Practical Hints to Travellers
Miller, William James
Europe -- Description and travel; Italy -- Description and travel; Provence (France); Riviera (France)
after six o’clock we arrived at Genoa, the train slackening speed
as it passed amidst ranges of lofty buildings, which looked all the
more grand that our eyes for so long had been unaccustomed to the
dimensions of a town so large.
GENOA.
For many miles before arrival, we could, from the railway carriage
windows, descry the ‘superb’ city with its tall lighthouse standing
like a sentinel in advance. But one loses much in arriving by railway
instead of by sea. The view had upon entering Genoa for the first time
by sea is always spoken of as magnificent, and it must necessarily be
very striking. The large natural basin which forms the port, protected
by two long moles or breakwaters, emanating from each side like two
arms, forms a semicircle nearly two miles in diameter, the east end
terminated by the lighthouse, said to be 520 feet high above the level
of the sea, and the west end crowned by the large and lofty Church of
St. Maria de Carignano. From the harbour, filled with shipping, the
ground rises all round to a height of 500 or 600 feet in steep slopes,
upon which the city is built; a line of warehouses or other great white
buildings, connected no doubt for the most part, if not altogether,
with the trade of the port, forms the front rank, and gives an
imposing facing to the whole. The buildings on the west side, however,
exhibit but a slender cordon: the compact mass of the city lies upon
the hill–slopes and hills of the east side, which extend outward
considerably to the south of the east mole. The view, therefore, on
arriving by sea, must be that of looking upon one–half of the sloping
tiers of a gigantic amphitheatre; while backward from the city, which
is surrounded by a double wall or line of fortification, the Apennines
rise in still higher slopes, bold and stern, and probably afford some
protection from the north winds.
Thus looks the famous city, once thriving by commerce, and powerful,
till a spirited foreign policy led, as its natural consequences, to
expensive wars, to weakness and decay. It revived, however, in time,
and manifests a scene of peaceful busy industry, conferring upon it the
position of being the first commercial town of Italy.
* * * * *
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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