Wintering in the Riviera: With Notes of Travel in Italy and France, and Practical Hints to TravellersMiller, William James
Philosophy
Wintering in the Riviera: With Notes of Travel in Italy and France, and Practical Hints to Travellers
Miller, William James
Europe -- Description and travel; Italy -- Description and travel; Provence (France); Riviera (France)
So numerous are the churches in Rome, that I believe it may be said
there is one for every day in the year. They abound everywhere, and
during a short visit one can only, of course, see a few of those which
may be regarded as among the chief. All of them, however, possess some
distinguishing mark to attract attention. We entered a good many, the
very names of which we did not know. And it is useful to notice that in
general it is necessary to visit the churches before twelve o’clock;
after the hour of noon they are closed, except in the case of some of
the more important.
The Pantheon (built B.C. 27) is the only ancient building in Rome
which is now standing entire, although bereft of its ornamentation;
but such has been the accumulation of rubbish around it, that the
steps leading up to it are now considerably below the level of the
street. The edifice itself, also, is much hid by surrounding houses,
and is not seen till one is close upon it. Passing through a grand
columnar portico, we enter a vast circular expanse 140 feet wide,
surmounted by a dome 140 feet high. There are large recesses or deep
niches around, which were formerly used as receptacles for statues of
the gods, when it became a Roman temple. The place now looks very
vacant. The building has been stripped also externally of its marble
covering or skin and other adornments, so that it no longer exhibits
the magnificence it once possessed. But here Raphael and other great
painters have been buried, and here the body of Victor Emmanuel, the
gallant first King of Italy, has found its resting–place. Mr. Thomson
observes:
‘The noblest of all the remains of ancient Rome, the Pantheon was,
without doubt, originally built as a portion of these (Agrippa’s)
baths; it is proved by the contiguity of the other fragments, and
by the identity of the style of the brickwork. It was turned into a
temple by Agrippa himself, on which occasion he added the portico of
sixteen Corinthian columns of granite, each of one stone, 50 feet 9
inches in length and 5 feet 9 inches in diameter. Thirteen of these
remain as originally placed; the three on the east side are modern
restorations.’[33]
San Pietro in Vinculi is visited because it possesses Michael Angelo’s
grand colossal statue of Moses. Notwithstanding its masterly power, it
is far from pleasing in the confined space in which it is placed.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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