Wintering in the Riviera: With Notes of Travel in Italy and France, and Practical Hints to TravellersMiller, William James
Philosophy
Wintering in the Riviera: With Notes of Travel in Italy and France, and Practical Hints to Travellers
Miller, William James
Europe -- Description and travel; Italy -- Description and travel; Provence (France); Riviera (France)
The following morning we took a cab to drive through and see the town,
and, looking to select a good one, I was beset by a host of cabmen,
all wanting to be engaged, even after I had engaged one, and told them
so positively. There is very little choice among them. The vehicles
are all equally shabby, and the drivers all equally dirty. Their fares
are very low, which may account for the disreputable appearance of the
men and cabs, which are as numerous as bees in a hive. The coachmen
will take any amount of trouble to get a hire. If, upon going to a
place, say the Museum, they be dismissed, they will hang about for
an hour, hoping to get the return fare. But driving is really the
only way by which one can see some parts of Naples. The town swarms
with people to an extent which, unless seen, can hardly be either
realized or credited. In England, every rod may maintain its man, but
in Naples, and even all about the Bay of Naples, it would seem as if
not merely every square yard, but almost every square foot maintained
its man, woman, or child. But how they all live, or even where they
all sleep, is a mystery. The main street, the Toledo, a mile long, is
so crowded, that one wonders how the carriages can possibly penetrate;
and the people are such notorious thieves and such adroit pickpockets,
that it is dangerous to attempt to walk on foot. Even in driving,
the passenger must be very careful, as a thief will think nothing of
abstracting loose articles, even in his very sight. At the railway
station the traveller should keep a sharp look–out that the very porter
who is taking his portmanteau to a carriage does not quietly run off
with it. Knowing these habits, we left the most of our luggage at Rome,
and only took with us what was indispensable, as every additional
package is in such a case an additional anxiety.
* * * * *
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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