Wintering in the Riviera: With Notes of Travel in Italy and France, and Practical Hints to TravellersMiller, William James
Philosophy
Wintering in the Riviera: With Notes of Travel in Italy and France, and Practical Hints to Travellers
Miller, William James
Europe -- Description and travel; Italy -- Description and travel; Provence (France); Riviera (France)
Passing through an old gateway, we were ushered into a museum, the
contents of which are not numerous, as the bulk of the articles found
is sent to the large Museum of Naples. It contains, however, some
things of great interest, particularly the casts of men and women
found in Pompeii who had perished in the great overthrow, and whose
bodies had been so curiously enveloped with the scoriæ as to form a
close–fitting, indurated mould, and a cast from it, when the dust
is blown out, reproduces every line of the body or of the clothing
of the suffocated person. Some of the casts so taken give a clear
representation of the form of the features; and I noticed that the
dress of the men seemed to be very similar to what is still worn by
those in the vicinity, particularly in the tight–fitting, wrought
woollen jacket covering the body. If I was right in this supposition,
it is another instance of the manner in which the people cling to
ancient habits and modes of dress.
We were then taken to the excavations which are being systematically
carried on, and our examination commenced with the forum, a large
open space, containing the remains of the pillars by which it was
surrounded. From these remains and the remains of other public
buildings, it is evident that Pompeii was a very elegantly adorned
city. It had temples, no less than nine being marked upon the plan,
but they are all in ruins; only fragments exist, the pillars and
superincumbent building having been almost everywhere thrown down.
In some of them, such as the temple of Venus and temple of Isis, a
few columns, with their entablature, stand, to indicate the beauty
of their construction. Besides temples there have been excavated two
theatres and a large amphitheatre, in excellent preservation, capable
of accommodating 20,000 persons, and nearly, in length and breadth, as
large as that at Nismes; also, as usual in Roman towns, baths, besides
other public buildings. But probably the greatest interest attaches to
the remains of the private dwellings. It is rarely that private houses
exhibit, after a lapse of nearly 2000 years, even in ruins, what they
were when in occupation. Here, however, the lava or scoriæ or dust of
Vesuvius by hermetical seal closed up these houses, in order that they
might be seen by the people of a long–distant age. Many of the houses
in Pompeii belonged to men of wealth, and they are all laid out, in the
better class at least, upon much the same plan, entering upon a square
court, open in the centre to the outer air, in the middle of which a
marble fountain played. The rooms were built around or beyond, the
principal or public rooms being to the back—a mode of design probably
suitable to the climate, at least in summer, and admitting, no doubt,
of great elegance of arrangement and design, and of which such houses
as those of Marcus Holconius, of the Faun, of Sallust, of the poet,
of Meleager, and of Cornelius Rufus afford examples,—all containing
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