Wintering in the Riviera: With Notes of Travel in Italy and France, and Practical Hints to TravellersMiller, William James
Philosophy
Wintering in the Riviera: With Notes of Travel in Italy and France, and Practical Hints to Travellers
Miller, William James
Europe -- Description and travel; Italy -- Description and travel; Provence (France); Riviera (France)
A charming variety in our life was to take one of the small
pleasure–boats, always lying at the hotel quay for engagement, and pull
about on the lake, although at noon it was fully too hot even for that.
Still we had several delightful sails upon the lake. One of these was
across to the Villa Carlotta. This residence contains some exquisite
sculptures, particularly the ‘Cupid and Psyche’ by Canova, which, by
means of photographs, and sometimes in alabaster copies, is so well
known. Also ‘Innocence,’ a winged youth or maiden holding a pair of
doves, by Bien Aimé; and a large frieze, with reliefs, by Thorwaldsen,
which cost £15,000. The hall in which this beautiful collection of
sculptures is placed does not seem worthy of it. It looks rather like a
receptacle or storage room till the proper hall be ready; but one would
almost wish that such gems of art could be seen in a less inaccessible
place. The grounds of the villa are delightful; the vegetation is
quite tropical, while the views are superb, especially looking across
to Bellaggio and the lofty mountains bordering the other side of Lake
Lecco, which tower like a huge wall of rock behind the Serbelloni Hill.
Returning to our boat, we rowed round the coast, which contains very
many luxuriant spots; one of the most lovely of these was a little
summer–house by the banks of the lake, filled with graceful drooping
acacias and brilliant summer flowers—one of those ‘juicy bits’ which
artists so much prize.
On another occasion we visited the Villa Melzi, lying upon the
Bellaggio side. It contains some good sculptures, but not equal
to those in the Villa Carlotta. The gardens, however, were
fascinating—shady walks with sloping grass banks, lofty trees, and all
by the margin of the smiling lake. One could hardly imagine a more
romantic residence, but the proprietor occupies it only two months
in the year—September and October. We did long for the power of
transplanting such places, with all their sunshine and clear blue sky,
to our native land.
* * * * *
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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