Wintering in the Riviera: With Notes of Travel in Italy and France, and Practical Hints to TravellersMiller, William James
Philosophy
Wintering in the Riviera: With Notes of Travel in Italy and France, and Practical Hints to Travellers
Miller, William James
Europe -- Description and travel; Italy -- Description and travel; Provence (France); Riviera (France)
The walk up the Pfäffers Gorge is very interesting. Crossing a rustic
wooden bridge over a deep rapid torrent, not very wide, however, the
road at once begins to lead into a confined valley, the rocks or hills
on either side rising steeply, and leaving room only for the river
and the road by its side, with an occasional widening. It is well
wooded all along, the pine trees affording shelter to some extent
from the sun when it penetrates, as it does in certain positions. The
seclusion is alluring, but it is not altogether free from danger. At
one place my daughter ran up a bank, and came flying back to say that
she had found a snake moving in the grass at her feet. An older person,
less observant, would in all likelihood have trod upon it.[44] As we
proceeded, the mountains seemed to rise higher and higher overhead;
and, about two and a half miles from Ragatz, the rocks approach still
closer, and a large hotel, seemingly very much out of place, greets the
eye. Here tickets are procured for entrance to the gorge itself. It is
effected through the hotel to a wooden gallery resting on a ledge cut
out of the rock, which impends at a by no means assuring acute angle
immediately overhead, and even some way beyond the shaky platform.
Looking down the abyss, the water is seen below flowing still and deep
and fast through the narrow cleft; and this cleft rises high, as we can
see the rocks appearing to all but touch above, while one side inclines
to the other with an apparent appalling desire to embrace. It looks as
if an earthquake had split up the rock, and as if another shock might
at once and for ever close it up again. It is a damp, gloomy sort of
cavern, till one reaches the part where the hot spring escapes from
the rocks, one half of it flowing into the river in a huge spout, and
the remainder being carried in a long pipe to Ragatz to supply the
baths there. We entered by a door into a cave in the rock, a distance
of probably 50 or 60 feet, pitch dark, hot, and vaporous, where we had
given us a little of the hot water to drink, not disagreeable to the
taste. Afraid of chill, we left in time to get back to Ragatz ere the
road should be in shade.
* * * * *
We should have stayed at Ragatz with pleasure for at least a week,
but, expecting letters at Lucerne, remained only three nights. Leaving
the hotel at half–past eight, we had a tedious journey, as we did not
arrive at Lucerne (only about 76 miles distant by rail) till four
o’clock, the railway passing through a very pretty country, well wooded
and watered, stopping at every station by the way, and for an hour at
the town of Zurich. Leaving in sunshine, we were again unfortunate
enough to arrive at Lucerne in heavy rain, which, with previous falls,
had caused the lake to overflow its banks.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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