Wintering in the Riviera: With Notes of Travel in Italy and France, and Practical Hints to TravellersMiller, William James
Philosophy
Wintering in the Riviera: With Notes of Travel in Italy and France, and Practical Hints to Travellers
Miller, William James
Europe -- Description and travel; Italy -- Description and travel; Provence (France); Riviera (France)
I had, before leaving Pau, calculated on getting a good hour
before dinner for a drive through the town; but a change had been
recently made,—I suppose about the 16th October, the usual commencement
of winter hours,—by which our train, probably to dispense with another,
became a slow one, stopping at all stations, and taking two hours
longer than before; so that, arriving at six o’clock, there was no
time for a drive in daylight. In the evening I had a stroll through a
small part of the town, which contains some good wide shop streets. The
Church of St. Servan is the finest, and, according to representations,
peculiarly constructed, but in the dark I had no opportunity of seeing
it. Nor did we see the bridges and other neighbouring public parts.
Had we not been anxious to push on towards Marseilles, we might have
stopped a day to see a city which has a name, but is a good deal out of
the ordinary path of travellers. We also missed seeing the view from it
of the Pyrenees, which is said to be there extensive, being about the
centre of the chain. It rained through the night, and was damp in the
morning; and as our train left at ten o’clock, we could not obtain an
hour before leaving for Montpellier.
The scenery between Toulouse and Cette, great part of which we had
missed on our former journey in the dark or twilight, was not equal to
that of the previous day. We passed field after field of vineyards,
where they were lading large carts with the grapes. About Biarritz and
other places in the south–west of France, the carts are generally drawn
by oxen. In Italy, the equally patient buffalo, with its meek eyes, is
used. Here the carts seen from the railway were drawn by two horses.
Grapes were charged at the railway station of Narbonne, in the centre
of this vine district, 5d. per lb. We had paid elsewhere from 1½d. (15
centimes) to 3d. (30 centimes) per lb., but at railway stations prices
are usually increased. For oranges at railway stations, 20 centimes
apiece were sometimes demanded. The sun went down as we got into Cette,
but not before gaining, as we approached that port, a glimpse now
and then of our old friend the Mediterranean. A cup of coffee at the
station was refreshing, but the waiter, who calculated in sous, was
very confused in his reckoning. We arrived at Montpellier in the dark
at 6.44, and found the omnibus of the Hotel Nevet waiting; but it would
not start till all luggage was got out, so that we might as well have
taken our luggage with us instead of leaving it, as we usually did on
such journeys, for the night at the station. This hotel, recommended as
the best, is rather old–fashioned both in accommodation and furnishing,
giving an idea of the comforts enjoyed there in former times when
Montpellier was in vogue, and its name was a synonym for any place
where the air was peculiarly pure and salubrious. Now I suspect it has
lost favour, and more modern localities, such as Cannes and Mentone,
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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