Wintering in the Riviera: With Notes of Travel in Italy and France, and Practical Hints to TravellersMiller, William James
Philosophy
Wintering in the Riviera: With Notes of Travel in Italy and France, and Practical Hints to Travellers
Miller, William James
Europe -- Description and travel; Italy -- Description and travel; Provence (France); Riviera (France)
After being eight days at Hyères, we were by no means sorry to leave it
for Cannes by the little branch line to Toulon, where we were doomed
to wait two hours—one in consequence of the trains not fitting in,
and another because the train we were to join (a first–class express
from Paris) was an hour behind time. French trains are generally
very punctual, but on these long journeys are, especially at the
commencement of a season, often late. The engine was, in consequence,
urged on at an unusual speed after leaving Toulon, and we had made up
a good part of the lost time when we were stopped at Fréjus by a goods
train having by some accident got in the way. After all, we were not
more than half an hour late at Cannes. We again had much difficulty
in getting seat–room, guards affording no manner of assistance; the
carriages also were filled with people who had travelled all night
from Paris, and perhaps were selfishly unwilling to be disturbed by
intruders. On this our second journey to Cannes, the blinds on _both_
sides of the carriage were ruthlessly closed by the ‘foreigners’
sitting next them, so that we had no chance of seeing the lovely views
to be had from the windows.
We went to our old quarters at Cannes, where, in spite of mosquitoes
and flies, we were, as before, very comfortable. The weather was partly
sunny and partly wet during the ten days we sojourned there. On one of
the bright days our quondam invalid walked to the top of the Croix de
Garde, which she could not attempt on our visit the previous year. It
showed how well she then was, and how much cause for thankfulness we
then had.
* * * * *
We reached Mentone on 12th November 1877, unfortunately in heavy rain,
and, having some time previously secured them, obtained possession of
the same bright rooms we had occupied the year before, and there we
remained till the end of March.
The weather at Mentone during December and January was unusually
cold—such a coldness as had not been experienced for many years. It
was penetrating, and hard to withstand, at least during the hours of
darkness. When the sun was out, the air was warm; but mornings and
evenings were cold, and it was difficult to avoid encountering cold
blasts and drafts, especially in passing from hot rooms through cold
corridors chilled by open doors, and we did find this year servants
very tiresome in leaving doors open which communicated with the outer
air. I believe, though not conscious of it at the time, that this cold
weather and the cold drafts had reproduced, though it might have then
been in a very elementary way, the seeds of disease which we fondly
thought had been altogether eradicated.
* * * * *
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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