Wintering in the Riviera: With Notes of Travel in Italy and France, and Practical Hints to TravellersMiller, William James
Philosophy
Wintering in the Riviera: With Notes of Travel in Italy and France, and Practical Hints to Travellers
Miller, William James
Europe -- Description and travel; Italy -- Description and travel; Provence (France); Riviera (France)
Sunday, indeed, is regarded as a fete day. In the times of the Empire
I found it, on occasion of my first visit to Paris, to be the day
of the great Fête Napoleon. It was also the day for illuminations,
and for playing the Grandes–Eaux at Versailles. The same practice
prevails elsewhere. At Rome there was on one Sunday during our visit
an illumination of the Piazza del Popolo, and a balloon was sent up in
the course of the evening. At Pau also our attention was called one
Sunday afternoon to an immense balloon descending, with a man suspended
from it by ropes—a most perilous–looking adventure, and by no means an
agreeable spectacle, though we were not near enough to see the man
distinctly. Throughout France the elections take place on the Sunday,
and possibly it is the same elsewhere. In Italy and in Paris, as well
as in other places, people expend a portion of their earnings in
driving about in cabs and other vehicles plying for hire. One summer,
a few years ago, we spent a fortnight in the Champs Elysées, and found
that on Sunday evening they were, if possible, more brilliantly lighted
up, and more gay and noisy, than on other nights; but I think the
great spectacle then to be seen was derived from the multiplicity of
_voitures_ driving up and down, two rows one way and two rows another,
in continuous line. As each carries either one or two lights (I am not
sure which, but I think two), and as nothing at a little distance but
the lights is seen, the effect is curious. The broad roadway seems from
the Place de la Concorde to the Triumphal Arch to be filled with an
incessant stream of Will–o’–the–wisp–like lights noiselessly flitting
up and down the course.
* * * * *
Letters are delivered by the post either as usual on the rest of the
week, or at all events on the Sunday morning, but my impression is that
there is no difference in the deliveries. When there were any letters
to annoy us, they were sure to come on a Sunday morning, so that often
we wished there had been no delivery.
* * * * *
In hotels at home, with a laudable view to lessen the work of servants
and give opportunity to them to go to church, visitors who have private
rooms are often requested to dine on Sundays at the public table, and
I have heard of no less than thirteen newly–married couples at one of
the English lake hotels having thus one Sunday complied. As people
abroad are little in the habit of dining in private rooms, there is not
scope for this observance. But Sunday is always regarded as a day for a
somewhat better dinner than usual. Sometimes, if not on the ordinary
programme, it is in the shape of a course of ices, or it may be some
other rarity.
* * * * *
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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