Wintering in the Riviera: With Notes of Travel in Italy and France, and Practical Hints to TravellersMiller, William James
Philosophy
Wintering in the Riviera: With Notes of Travel in Italy and France, and Practical Hints to Travellers
Miller, William James
Europe -- Description and travel; Italy -- Description and travel; Provence (France); Riviera (France)
It was not often that we were induced by curiosity to go into a Roman
Catholic Church on a Sunday. The proceedings are unintelligible to
the uninitiated, and the service seems to be all performed for the
people by the priests, who are ‘the Church.’ Where there is singing
or vocal music, it is done by the priests alone, aided by boys, and
sometimes, though very rarely, by women. I recollect, when in Antwerp
many years ago, on occasion of some great festival the choir was
augmented by a number of (concealed) female singers with the sweetest
voices. But the congregation never joins in the singing. They listen,
just as congregations do at home to anthems performed by choirs, which
it would require a knowledge of music, acquaintance with the piece,
a music book, and a good voice to enable them to take part in. The
service is conducted by the priests, with their backs to the people,
these backs being generally covered with an ornamented dress, sometimes
exhibiting an inserted cross in colours, sometimes white satin with
rich gold embroidery, but varying according to the rank held by the
priest, and according to the place, and doubtless according, in some
churches, to the importance of the day. The chief priest appears to be
reading a large book before him on the altar, and mumbling something
to himself; and every now and then he and they (when more than one)
perform a genuflexion or change position, and sometimes he turns round
to the audience and says something inaudibly, while a boy tinkles a
bell as a signal to the people at certain stages of the service. The
ceremony is familiar to all who have been abroad. This priest service
is no doubt intended, with other things, to exalt the priesthood and
to swell its power, the grasp and severity of which the world has
unfortunately too often felt. It is only right, however, to say that
the people listen devoutly, and seem to know something at least of what
is going on, and can follow it and understand when to rise up and when
to kneel down. Many of them hold in their hands the book containing the
service, which is printed both in Latin and in their own tongue; and
were this book (after which the Prayer Book of the Church of England
is modelled) purged of some erroneous matters, such as the prayers
to the Virgin Mary and Saints, it contains a service to the words of
which Protestants probably could not object. Mass sometimes begins
very early in the morning; and after it has been said by the priest (I
think it does not take much longer than half an hour), the congregation
clears out and is succeeded by another, which pours in, before whom the
service is repeated. People who have so heard mass apparently consider
they have done their duty for the day so far as church worship is
concerned.
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Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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