With the Battle Fleet: Cruise of the Sixteen Battleships of the United States Atlantic Fleet from Hampton Roads to the Golden Gate, December, 1907-May, 1908Matthews, Franklin
History
With the Battle Fleet: Cruise of the Sixteen Battleships of the United States Atlantic Fleet from Hampton Roads to the Golden Gate, December, 1907-May, 1908
Matthews, Franklin
United States. Navy. Atlantic Fleet -- Cruise, 1907-1909
Death came almost in an instant to the bulls. The fighters risked their
lives dozens of times. The bull had a fair show at them. Their quick
movements, hairbreadth escapes, showed that nerve and rare skill were
required. Compared with prize fighting where two sluggers cover
themselves with blood, and when one is staggering about from exhaustion
the other gives him a blow that makes him unconscious--well, the writer
says unhesitatingly that he prefers the Peruvian bull fight. It all
depends, you see, upon the point of view.
Only a limited party could be the guests of the Government on the Oroya
Railroad trip. It was known as the official party. An unofficial party
with an engine and a passenger car followed. This Oroya Railroad was
started by Henry Meiggs, the defaulting partner of Ralston in California
who fled to Chile, got rich and paid up his debts. In 1869 he went to
Peru and started this railroad.
Peru had money to spend then. Meiggs finished the road up the mountains
as far as Chicla in 1876, and then the money gave out. More than
$26,000,000 had been spent going eighty-eight miles. Later the Peruvian
Corporation finished the road to Oroya, on the other side of the Andes,
and connections have been made with the road to the famous Cerro de
Pasco mines, owned by Mr. Haggin and other American millionaires. Two
other branches have been built and ultimately it is planned to extend
the road to the headwaters of the Amazon in Peru, so as to give the
country on the east of the Andes an outlet to the Atlantic Ocean for its
products.
The highest place on the line is Galera tunnel, under Mount Meiggs. It
is 15,665 feet high. The distance is 106 miles from Callao. There is not
an inch of down grade in the climb. There are no less than fifty-seven
tunnels. Bridges over chasms and foaming cascades and the River Rimac,
whose course the road follows, are numbered by the score. For
forty-seven miles it is a steady climb beside the Rimac torrent in a
desolate country, with the mountains red and bare. There is no rainfall
in that district.
Then you come to where the river is hemmed in by mountain gorges, and
you have to climb by means of switchbacks. Up you go, tilting this way
and that, beyond two layers of clouds. The sides of the mountains become
green. You are now in the land of the ancient Incas. Abandoned terraces
that lose themselves in the clouds flank scores of mountain sides. The
Incas raised their products there by some system of irrigation.
Fine specimens of trees appear, fruit orchards with chirimoyas, palta,
nispero and pacay, and willow and pepper trees in abundance. The flowers
begin to greet you, the heliotrope, solanaceas, spurge and cacti all
around. Back and forth you seesaw with massive, towering mountains above
you and several lines of tracks far below you. Now and then you come
upon a little town thousands of feet in the air.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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