With the Empress Dowager of ChinaCarl, Katharine A. (Katharine Augusta)
History
With the Empress Dowager of China
Carl, Katharine A. (Katharine Augusta)
China -- Court and courtiers; Cixi, Empress dowager of China, 1835-1908; Empresses -- China -- Biography
The time had now come for the Court to move in definitively to the
Winter Palace, and shortly after the Birthday festivities, Their
Majesties took up their residence in the Capital. Before I left the
Summer Palace, the young Empress suggested that I should go to the
Winter Palace the next day in time to assist in receiving Her Majesty
on her arrival there, for, as usual, I left the Summer Palace the
day before the Court, and went in to the United States Legation. At
every change of residence of the Empress Dowager, the young Empress,
Princesses, and Ladies of the Court precede her by a few hours, and
stand upon the threshold of her own dwelling Palace to receive her when
she arrives. Full Court dress is worn for this reception, and it is, as
is everything touching Her Majesty, a ceremony!
The day of the Empress Dowager’s entrance into her loyal City of Peking
for the winter, in December, 1903, was a typical Peking winter day; the
air was crisp and clear, the atmosphere positively sparkling, and like
champagne. One seemed to breathe an elixir. For her “progresses” from
one Palace to another the Empress Dowager always had, what they call in
England, “Queen’s weather.”
The City of Peking is composed of three walled towns--the Chinese,
the Tartar, and the Imperial City. Within the Imperial City lies the
Winter Palace, its battlemented, turreted walls surrounded by a moat.
After passing through one of the great gates, in the wall surrounding
the Imperial City, and crossing the stone bridge that spans “the
Grain-bearing Canal,” we soon came in sight of the splendid walls
and lofty gates of the Palace inclosure. The red outer walls of the
Palace, faded by Time and weather to a charming gray-pink, with their
beautiful corner constructions of airy-looking turrets reflected in
the still waters of the moat beneath, were most picturesque. We were
carried along the raised road beyond the moat until we came to a marble
bridge (formerly a portcullis), that leads into the gate of the Palace
in front of the Manchu Banner quarters, at the foot of the Coal Hill.
Our chairs, by special arrangement, were allowed to enter the inclosure
proper, of the Winter Palace; but even after entering the exterior
gates, one winds in and out between high walls, through massive gates
and heavy wooden doors studded with huge iron nails and ornamental
copper balls. Against the high wall on either side of this approach,
wooden sheds were built as sleeping-places for the guards and soldiers.
Each shed had a front of lattice-work, with paper pasted over the
interstices. Within was a cemented platform, which the Northern Chinese
use as beds. These have a place underneath for building a fire, for
they keep warm at night by sleeping on hot beds and use very little
cover.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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