With the Empress Dowager of ChinaCarl, Katharine A. (Katharine Augusta)
History
With the Empress Dowager of China
Carl, Katharine A. (Katharine Augusta)
China -- Court and courtiers; Cixi, Empress dowager of China, 1835-1908; Empresses -- China -- Biography
It was a picturesque jaunt in the early morning that I had from
the United States Legation to the Palace. My cart rattled down the
road, running parallel to the canal, past the splendid inclosure of
the English Legation to the “Glacis,” and across the Marble Bridge,
that traverses it, to the narrow street under the great red walls of
the Imperial City. The walls all over China are wonderful feats of
architecture, the culminating point of the science of the Chinese
builder. The “Great Wall,” long counted one of the wonders of the
world, is one of many in China, and only remarkable on account of its
size and great length. Nearly every town and city in China has massive,
well-constructed walls, which, with their splendid gate-towers, make
them really remarkable works of architecture. Even the palaces and
parks of the rich have fine walls, the monotony of their line varied
by the turreted summer-houses which surmount their angles. These walls,
quite overtopping the cities and houses they inclose, with their
watch-towers permitting their defenders to see at great distances,
must, in medieval times, have been a splendid protection against the
attacks of enemies or the inroads of barbarians.
The main thoroughfares of the Tartar City are very wide, with a raised
causeway, about two feet high, in the center. When Their Majesties go
abroad, this is covered with yellow sand and is used as an Imperial
roadway. Ordinarily any cart or chair, irrespective of the rank of
the occupant, may use it. It is always kept in excellent condition,
and seems to be a survival of the raised roads that Marco Polo speaks
of in describing the grounds of the Palace of Kublai-Kahn. The lower
roads on either side of this raised causeway are generally in a
lamentable state. Itinerant cooks ply their odorous trade of frying
grease-balls, etc.; barbers shave their clients and act as manicures
and chiropodists, in full view of the passer-by; venders of old iron,
clothes, vegetables, etc, spread out their wares in the middle of the
road, in reckless disregard of the wandering fowls, dogs, and even
pigs, which roam about. Pools of stagnant water and piles of refuse
add their quota to the malodorous confusion. Still the streets are not
unpicturesque. The elaborately carved fronts of the shops, the graceful
signs, with their red pennants, the gaily colored lanterns swinging to
and fro, the great umbrellas unfurled here and there over the itinerant
venders, all have a certain sort of charm.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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