The craze for souvenirs in the early days of the war was remarkable. After Neuve Chapelle, German helmets could be had for the asking, but shortly after ridiculous prices were being demanded for them. An officer of an Indian unit relates how he saw a big British soldier with a horribly smashed leg come crawling round the end of the trench on threes, with a German helmet hanging from his mouth by its strap. As he neared the officer the wounded man yapped at him, “Got my souvenir, sir.” The 39th Garhwal Rifles was a remarkably smart and clean regiment. An officer of another Indian battalion told me that the most impressive sight he saw at Neuve Chapelle was a dying British officer being carried by four Garhwali soldiers through all the turmoil, confusion, and firing with a quietness and tenderness that astonished him. He added, “and they looked so smart and clean.” The Indians at this battle were much impressed by the dash and bearing of the 3rd Londons. One of them said to me: “What is this they are saying, that untrained regiments can fight as well as trained ones. You always told us in India that without long and hard training we should be of no use in battle. Why is it that this London _paltan_ (regiment) can fight so well.” I said, trying to look wise: “They come from London and you from Lahore; there lies the difference. Think it out, my friend.” I know no one who is more susceptible to good example than the Indian soldier. At one time we were billeted in the same village with the Guards Brigade. In my opinion there is no body of troops in the world to beat the Guards at anything. One day I noticed a company of one of my Indian battalions being inspected. It was turned out as cleanly as in pre-war days, and I said to the Indian officers, “Your men look very smart to-day.” They replied, “Yes, but we have been quartered near the Guards Brigade, and although we have seen many of your best regiments we never saw men so well dressed and drilled, and we are following their example.” I wrote to Lord Cavan who was in command, adding my own testimony, and he told me he would let it be known to all ranks. CHAPTER XVIII