With the pilgrims to Mecca: The great pilgrimage of A.H. 1319; A.D. 1902Khan, Hadji (Gazanfar Ali)
Religion
With the pilgrims to Mecca: The great pilgrimage of A.H. 1319; A.D. 1902
Khan, Hadji (Gazanfar Ali)
Mecca (Saudi Arabia); Pilgrims and pilgrimages
I hesitated a moment before I ventured to put my fate to the test of
further experience. I knew well that I risked robbery, if not death,
in continuing my ramble; for, as I had noticed from the moment of my
setting out, the camp was haunted by paupers with the most evil and
desperate faces I ever beheld. They lay in wait for the unwary pilgrim
wherever the gloom was densest, and at best the lanterns and torches
about each tent shed but a dismal glimmer on its purlieus; but the
desire to scale the Hill of Arafat and to say my prayers on its summit,
at last overcame the whispers of alarm. My only weapon was a stout
cudgel, which I had picked up as a protection against the pariah dogs
that barked at every passer-by; however, as only a couple of dollars
were left in the little bag round my neck, I felt that I could plod
along in the teeth of danger with no load of uneasy wealth on my mind.
And so, with a fresh glow of courage, I sallied forth.
It was by this time about half-past three in the morning, and a lull
seemed to fall on the camp, or perhaps this was merely a fancy of mine,
a testimony to my jangled nerves. Be this as it may, I had not taken
a hundred paces before I had the evidence of my senses to testify to
the fact that my recent misgivings had been something more than the
suggestions of timidity or nervousness. For, on reaching a secluded
and storm-rent tent, I was suddenly surrounded by a gang of paupers,
who sprang out upon me, clamouring for alms in a tone so threatening,
that my pride rebelled and would not allow me to purchase my safety
at its expense. Enough, I thought, if I seek refuge in yonder tent. A
hail of stones about my head increased my determination to gain the
place of shelter, about fifty yards away, and thither I cudgelled me a
path with a desperate expenditure of strength. The surly rascals trod
close upon my heels, stoning “the devil of a Jew” with surly illwill;
but inside the tent they dared not follow me. For all that, if they
had committed the blunder of counting the booty before the battle was
won, I had soon the discomfiture to discover that innocence in distress
may be less fortunate in its destiny than villainy in disguise. To the
injuries I had received at the hands of the robbers were now added the
insults of the inmates of the tent. They stood on the defensive, taking
me to be a thief; I called heaven to witness that I had come near to
being his victim; whereupon they assumed the offensive, and, catching
me by the nape of the neck, dragged me outside and gave me in charge
of a sentinel who, as ill-luck would have it, happened to be on his
beat. Without saying a word, I disbursed myself of half the money I
had about me, which was a proof of the innocence of my intentions so
convincing to the sentinel, that he let me loose and fell to upbraiding
my unwilling hosts for their unjustifiable suspicions. His eloquence
took the sting out of the reception they had given me, and I went on my
way blithely enough.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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