With the pilgrims to Mecca: The great pilgrimage of A.H. 1319; A.D. 1902Khan, Hadji (Gazanfar Ali)
Religion
With the pilgrims to Mecca: The great pilgrimage of A.H. 1319; A.D. 1902
Khan, Hadji (Gazanfar Ali)
Mecca (Saudi Arabia); Pilgrims and pilgrimages
CHAPTER X
ARAFAT DAY: DAYBREAK
Pop, pop, pop! I lay between sleeping and waking, and wondered what the
noise could be. Bang, bang, bang! And again, bang, bang! I awoke with
a start--surprised to find myself wide awake; but an hour’s sleep is
not long enough to stupify a man. The reports grew louder, and the dogs
began to bark from every corner of the encampment.
“Come hither to prayers,” sang out the muezzins; “devotion is better
than sleep.” By that time every pilgrim was up and stirring. Wheuf!
the air of the false dawn, how chill it was! I summoned a servant,
telling him to light a fire outside the tent; other pilgrims followed
my example; and soon the hissing samovar gave promise of a cup of tea.
The eastern horizon, in the meantime, was growing redder and still
more red; and the pilgrims, having performed their ablutions and said
their prayers, began to intone the Talbiyah and the Tahlil, pouring out
their supplications to God and their belief in His unity, in a wailing
lilt of entreaty and contrition. Others stood in circles, beating
their breasts and singing the Labbaik. It was a scene of enthusiasm
impossible to describe.
Rap-tap-tap, tap-rap-rap, floated on the air: it was the sentinels
beating their drums to salute the break of day. Guns fired incessantly
on the hills and in the valley and on the plain. And now the hawkers
and the worshippers, the water-carriers and the paupers, the hungry
and the ascetic, all began to shout together. “Sweet water refreshes
the soul,” cried the water-carriers; “drink of the sacred water of
Ainé-Zobeideh.” “Give in the name of Allah,” whined the beggars; “my
living is in the gift of Allah. Are ye not the creatures of Allah?
Yá-Allah, yá-Allah!” “Light the fire and fill the cup,” said a Persian
officer, in his eagerness to break his fast. “And don’t forget to
‘fatten’ the water-pipe,” added his companion. “And you shall ‘dig up
its grandfather’ [that is, be the last to smoke it as it passes from
mouth to mouth], my friend,” said the officer, smiling.
When the sun came up on us, I saw Sheykh Eissa for the first time
that morning; he was standing at a distance of some yards, talking to
Seyyid ’Alí, whose handsome face shone with its usual expression of
light-hearted amusement. The two men bowed to me reverentially, their
hands folded on their breasts.
“Look, yá-Moulai,” said Seyyid ’Alí, “the top of the Mountain of Mercy
is so full of tents and animals and men, that the poor jinns, to say
nothing of the angels,----”
“Now, don’t talk blasphemy, my friend,” interrupted a priest called
Mullá Ahmad. “Do you think there is no room left for the angels?”
“God forbid!” cried Seyyid ’Alí, raising his eyes aloft. “They can
perch on the tent-poles, or on the camel-saddles.”
“Kofre-negueíd (don’t blaspheme)!” yelled the Mullá. “Don’t you
know that the angels are transparent? But for that the sun would be
eclipsed, so dense is the choir of angels in the circumambient air.”
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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