With the pilgrims to Mecca: The great pilgrimage of A.H. 1319; A.D. 1902Khan, Hadji (Gazanfar Ali)
Religion
With the pilgrims to Mecca: The great pilgrimage of A.H. 1319; A.D. 1902
Khan, Hadji (Gazanfar Ali)
Mecca (Saudi Arabia); Pilgrims and pilgrimages
Now, as regards the plan of the encampment, it has always been the
endeavour of the well-to-do to keep as close to the Mountain of Mercy
(the Hill of Arafat) as possible, and the consequence of this is that
the whole expanse of the northern face of the plain is more or less
aristocratic, with an effort to regularity in the arrangement of the
tents, the most distinguished camping-places being in the north-eastern
angle, where the Sheríf’s pavilions are pitched, and all along the
north and north-western ridges, where the tents of the Turkish soldiery
and the foreign grandees spread themselves in unbroken lines to the
point of attraction in the north-east. For to sun themselves in the
light of the Sheríf’s beneficent eye, is the ambition of all pilgrims
who have any claim to regard themselves as gentlefolk. The more the
plain slopes to the south, the more it is covered with the tents of the
vulgar and with the pilgrims that have no tents at all; while midway
between the two extremes are the booths and stalls of the open-air
bazaars: these are also scattered here and there in every encampment.
The Syrian and the Egyptian caravans, with their respective Mahmils,
take up their appointed places, nowadays, without any serious dispute
arising between them; but in olden times the rivalry was so keen and
so bitter, that blood was often shed. The Meccan religious officials,
the Turkish civil and military authorities, and the privileged grandees
of all nations, including, of course, the Persian Consul-General,
follow the precedent of immemorial custom; but for the rest the rule of
“first come, first served” holds good in every quarter of the plain,
I mean within the limits of the broadly defined distinctions of class
which make it expedient, if not compulsory, for the paupers and less
reputable pilgrims to keep to the south, leaving the northern regions
to their brethren of higher castes. In theory, the Mussulmans are all
equal, each to each; but, socially, they are at least as exclusive
as the Christians, and infinitely more exacting where etiquette and
ceremony are concerned; while at Mecca, the Kiblah of the Faith,
there is, with the yearly influx of pilgrims of heterogeneous races,
a growing tendency to assimilate the two most striking effects of
western centralisation as seen in the capitals of Europe--namely, an
inclination to become more and more tolerant in matters of religion,
and a determination to regard wealth as the determinative factor in
separating class from class. To every student of Islám the first of
these is of tremendous importance. He must bear constantly in mind
that the embroilments between the seventy-two sects, so far from being
irreconcilable, show a steady inclination to become less marked in the
holy city of Mecca at the present day, notwithstanding the hostility
of the priests towards a complete reunion. Time was when the Shiahs,
to which sect the Persians and the Nakhowalis of Medina belong, were
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