With the pilgrims to Mecca: The great pilgrimage of A.H. 1319; A.D. 1902Khan, Hadji (Gazanfar Ali)
Religion
With the pilgrims to Mecca: The great pilgrimage of A.H. 1319; A.D. 1902
Khan, Hadji (Gazanfar Ali)
Mecca (Saudi Arabia); Pilgrims and pilgrimages
sumptuous and varied in colour and form as those of the poorest classes
were ingenious in contrivance. The Sherífian colours were green and
gold and red, and the most beautiful pavilions of all were certainly
his. After these, perhaps, came those belonging to the Persian
Consul-General, who made a not unsuccessful attempt to compete with
the highest in the splendour and completeness of his camp equipment.
Moreover, the thoroughfares of the select corner of the plain were,
upon the whole, well-ordered and creditably policed, more especially
was this the case with those in closest proximity to the Turkish
authorities.
And now with these preliminary remarks on the appearance of the city
of tents by day, I will ask the readers to follow me into the Persian
encampment situated midway between the Syrian and Egyptian caravans;
for it is my present wish to be the means of introducing him to that
interesting Shiah sect that flourishes in the neighbourhood of Medina
and is known by the name of Nakhowalis. I had a long talk with about
a dozen of these men (they had accompanied the Persian pilgrims from
Medina to Mecca as guides) and it is on the information that I gleaned
from them that this short paragraph is based.
Well, when the Prophet fled from Mecca, with a few devoted followers,
he was received by a great number of the people of Medina with every
mark of confidence. Those who fled with him were afterwards called
Mohajer or Immigrants, while those who went out to help him from the
city of refuge came to be known by the name of Anssar or Auxiliaries.
It is from the latter party that the Nakhowalis claim descent. They
now number about two thousand families, and live, in open feud with
the Orthodox inhabitants, outside the city gates. They have their own
mosques and cemetery, as they are not allowed to worship within the
Harem of the Prophet’s Tomb, nor were they permitted, until quite
recently, to cross its threshold. The cause of all their disabilities,
however, is of a political rather than religious nature; for all of
them hold the first two Caliphs in execration, the greater number
forswearing allegiance to Othman as well. The bond of sympathy between
the two groups thus formed is the veneration and love they bear
Muhammad’s cousin and son-in-law, ’Alí, whom they believe to have been
the lawful successor of the Prophet. However much or little they may
differ in doctrine from the Shiahs of Persia, they are acknowledged by
the latter as belonging to the same communion; indeed, the Persians
contribute, year by year, considerable sums of money to the support of
these distant co-religionists of theirs--sums which are handed over
to them by one of the Persian pilgrims. Moreover, a Nakhowali, if he
chance to visit the country of the Lion and the Sun, will be sure to
return with bags full of money; nor is this charity of a sort that
loses both itself and friend, the recipient being quick in responding
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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