With the pilgrims to Mecca: The great pilgrimage of A.H. 1319; A.D. 1902Khan, Hadji (Gazanfar Ali)
Religion
With the pilgrims to Mecca: The great pilgrimage of A.H. 1319; A.D. 1902
Khan, Hadji (Gazanfar Ali)
Mecca (Saudi Arabia); Pilgrims and pilgrimages
All beasts of prey are believed by the superstitious to keep away from
the valley during the Day of Sacrifice and the Days of Drying Flesh;
for, had not the victims been brought down from heaven by angels, and
driven by them under the guidance of Bedouin shepherds, to the place
of slaughter? But the truth is that the Takruri negroes were more
blood-thirsty than any of the carnivorous animals or birds of prey:
they laid in wait until the sheep were killed, feasting their eyes on
the creatures’ dying agonies, and then pounced on the carcases like
hungry vultures.
Now, a great many pilgrims, after casting off the Ihrám and putting
on their festival attire, went at once to Mecca, visited the Ka’bah,
repeating the ceremonies already described, and then returned to Mina
to slay their victims. One of our party who had taken this course fell
sick of the cholera on the road, and the news of his grave condition
reached us at mid-day. We therefore determined to take up our quarters
in Mecca, for our comrade’s sake, and to return to Mina, day by day,
in order to complete our stoning of the Devil. Sheykh Eissa, however,
remained behind to take charge of our camp; and when we got back again
next morning, it was to hear from him a flamboyant account of the
fireworks and jollifications of the Great Festival that we had missed.
We listened to his stories of the too-unfettered revelry by night with
heavy hearts, for our friend was dead. Outside, the whole valley stank
like a shambles, hundreds of pilgrims having succumbed overnight to the
cholera epidemic; and so, when we had stoned the Devil for the second
time, we bent our steps again to the Holy City, taking care to remember
our comrade in our prayers as we passed by the mosque of Khaif. There
we saw some poor pilgrims drying the flesh of a dead sheep--a revolting
spectacle. Next day, the 12th of Zú-’l-hijjah, we cast the remaining
twenty-one stones at the three buttresses in the Valley of Desire, and
were ready on the 13th to join the little pilgrimage to Al-Omreh--a
mosque near the pillars of Alemeyn--having to that end performed
ablutions with the water of Zem-Zem, and put on the ihrám once more,
and made our declaration of intention opposite the Black Stone. It
took us about three hours to reach the sacred spot where we said a
two-prostration prayer after having subjected our heads and hands and
feet to a second ablution. Then we rode back to Mecca and again went
through all those ceremonies within the Harem and between Mount Safá
and Mount Marveh which have been described in the earlier pages of this
narrative. This brought the little pilgrimage of Omreh to an end, and
the ihrám was finally removed. Thenceforward the streets of Mecca were
crowded with pilgrims dressed in every costume of the East.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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