With the pilgrims to Mecca: The great pilgrimage of A.H. 1319; A.D. 1902Khan, Hadji (Gazanfar Ali)
Religion
With the pilgrims to Mecca: The great pilgrimage of A.H. 1319; A.D. 1902
Khan, Hadji (Gazanfar Ali)
Mecca (Saudi Arabia); Pilgrims and pilgrimages
After much bargaining I bought a Bábághúli for a couple of Turkish
pounds, and found in it, beyond its usual interest, a magnificent
example of Perso-Syrian work. The cornelian, which is circular in shape
and slightly raised in the middle, is of a rosy shade, and measures
about an inch in circumference. On it is engraved, in the finest Naskh
writing, a short chapter of the Kurán, which must have cost the artist
half-a-year’s labour. The stone is set in silver of a floral design,
with two loops or links, through which are threaded strings of gold
ending with tassels and a running noose for fastening round the arm.
Round the centre stone are inlaid twenty-two rubies and emeralds, in
alternate order, eleven of each. These stones alone, though they are
not cut properly, are worth three times as much as I gave for the
whole thing. I made haste to tie the Bábághúli round my biceps, more
from fear of theft than any superstitious motive, and promised not to
part with it in any circumstances; whereat my guide, sneering, said,
“May the devil give you a wide berth, yá-Moulai!” the talisman-monger
endorsing the wish by adding, “May it be auspicious.”
The wearing of a túgh, or silver chain, to which is attached a silver
bowl called kashkúl, is confined to the Shiahs. It is worn round the
neck by many Persian boys, and is changed every year until the boy is
nine years old. By the end of that time he has nine chains laid by.
These are sent, as propitiatory offerings, to the shrine of some saint,
that of Abbas in Kerbela being the most sacred. Thus it comes about
that a boy, so long as he wears the túgh, is called “the dog of Abbas,”
and is said to be under the special protection of that saintly man. I
turned to my guide. “How is it,” said I, “that he is called Abbas’s
dog, and not ‘Allah’s dog,’ or, more becomingly still, ‘Allah’s child’?”
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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