The sun was almost at its zenith; the earth, wherever it appeared
sterile and destitute of vegetation, was at the temperature of 120 deg.. Not
a breath of air was felt at the height at which we were on our mules;
yet, in the midst of this apparent calm, whirls of dust incessantly
arose, driven on by those small currents of air which glide only over
the surface of the ground, and are occasioned by the difference of
temperature between the naked sand and the spots covered with grass.
All around us the plains seemed to ascend to the sky, and the vast and
profound solitude appeared like an ocean covered with sea-weed. On the
horizon the earth was confounded with the sky. Through the dry mist and
strata of vapor the trunks of palm-trees were seen from afar, stripped
of their foliage and their verdant summits, and looking like the masts
of a ship descried upon the horizon. There is something awful, as well
as sad and gloomy, in the uniform aspect of these steppes. Everything
seems motionless; scarcely does a small cloud, passing across the
zenith, and denoting the approach of the rainy season, cast its shadow
on the earth. I know not whether the first aspect of the llanos excites
less astonishment than that of the chain of the Andes.
When, beneath the vertical rays of the bright and cloudless sun of the
tropics, the parched sward crumbles into dust, then the indurated soil
cracks and bursts as if rent asunder by some mighty earthquake. And if,
at such a time, two opposite currents of air, by conflict moving in
rapid gyrations, come in contact with the earth, a singular spectacle
presents itself. Like funnel-shaped clouds, their apexes touching the
earth, the sand rises in vapory form through the rarefied air in the
electrically-charged centre of the whirling current, sweeping on like
the rushing waterspout, which strikes such terror into the heart of the
mariner. A dim and sallow light gleams from the lowering sky over the
dreary plain. The horizon suddenly contracts, and the heart of the
traveller sinks with dismay as the wide steppe seems to close upon him
on all sides. The hot and dusty earth forms a cloudy veil which shrouds
the heavens from view, and increases the stifling oppression of the
atmosphere, while the east wind, when it blows over the long-heated
soil, instead of cooling, adds to the burning glow. Gradually, too, the
pools of water, which had been protected from evaporation by the now
seared foliage of the fan-palm, disappear. As in the icy north animals
become torpid from cold, so here the crocodile and the boa-constrictor
lie wrapt in unbroken sleep, deeply buried in the dried soil. Everywhere
the drought announces death, yet everywhere the thirsty wanderer is
deluded by the phantom of a moving, undulating, watery surface, created
by the deceptive play of the mirage. A narrow stratum separates the
ground from the distant palm-trees, which seem to hover aloft, owing to
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