Women artists in all ages and countriesEllet, E. F. (Elizabeth Fries)
History
Women artists in all ages and countries
Ellet, E. F. (Elizabeth Fries)
Women artists
Among mountains the great artist is completely in her element; out of
doors from morning till night, lodging in the humblest and remotest of
road-side hotels, or in the huts of wood-cutters, charcoal-burners,
and chamois-hunters, and living contentedly on whatever fare can be
obtained. In 1856, being furnished by families of distinction in the
Béarnais and the Basque provinces with introductions, her party pushed
their adventurous wanderings to the little station of Peyronère, the
last inhabited point within the French frontier, and thence up the
romantic defiles of the Vallée d’Urdos, across the summit of the
Pyrenees. Their letters procured them a hospitable reception at each
halting-place, with a trusty guide for the next march. In this way they
crossed the mountains, and gained the lonely _posada_ of Canfan, the
first on the Spanish side of the ridge, where, for six weeks, they saw
no one but the muleteers with their strings of mules, who would halt
for the night at the little inn, setting out at the earliest dawn for
their descent of the mountains.
The people of the _posada_ lived entirely on curdled sheep’s milk,
the sole article of food the party could obtain on their arrival.
At one time, by an early fall of snow, they were shut out from all
communication with the valley. Their threatened starvation was averted
by the exertions of Mademoiselle Micas, who managed to procure a
quantity of frogs, the hind legs of which she enveloped in leaves,
and toasted on sticks over a fire on the hearth. On these frogs they
lived for two days, when the hostess was induced to attempt the
making of butter from the milk of her sheep, and even to allow the
conversion of one of these animals into mutton for their benefit. Their
larder thus supplied, and black bread being brought for them by the
muleteers from a village a long way off, they gave themselves up to
the pleasures of their wild life and the business of sketching. The
arrival of the muleteers, in their embroidered shirts, pointed hats,
velvet jackets, leathern breeches, and sandals, was always a welcome
event. Rosa paid for wine for them, and they, in return, performed
their national dances for her, after which they would throw themselves
down for the night upon sheepskins before the fire, furnishing subjects
for many picturesque _croquis_. As the _posada_ was a police-station,
established there as a terror to smugglers, the little party felt
perfectly safe, notwithstanding its loneliness.
Rosa was much pleased with her Scotch tour. She brought away a
wonderful little Skye terrier, named “Wasp,” of the purest breed,
and remarkably intelligent, which she holds in great affection. She
has learned for its benefit several English phrases, to which “Wasp”
responds with appreciative waggings of the tail.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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