Women -- Employment -- Great Britain; Women labor union members -- Great Britain; Working class women -- Great Britain
The tailoring trade has many points of contact with the dress and
mantle-making trade which has just been reviewed. It too is divided with
some sharpness into a made-to-order or bespoke, and a ready-made section.
The distinction does not imply perhaps quite so clear a division between
factories and workshops, though in this trade also it may be taken as
broadly true that the bespoke is the workshop and the ready-made is the
factory section. In this connection one interesting point of contrast is
presented by the statistics, for it will be seen that while, as before
noted, the factory section of the dress and mantle-making trade showed a
higher general level of earnings than the workshop section, the reverse is
true of the tailoring trade. This is probably due principally to two
facts. The first is that while the work in the bespoke shop is usually
skilled, it does not necessitate any exceptionally well-paid work such as
that done by cutters and trimmers in the dressmaking establishment. The
cutting and other highly-skilled work is done by men, so that women enter
the trade without the inducement afforded by the chance, however small, of
rising to 35s., £2, or even £3 a week which is offered by the dressmaking
workshop. It is probable, moreover, that the small dress and mantle-making
shop enjoys a certain reputation of "gentility" which is less marked in
the tailoring establishment, and finds its equivalent in higher wages. The
second fact is that the processes of simplification and subdivision which
broadly are the characteristics of factory as distinct from workshop
methods can be carried further in the manufacture of men's suits than in
that of ladies' dresses and costumes, so that the general level of skill
requisite to the factory worker is somewhat lower in the one case than in
the other. We thus find that while the average in tailoring workshops is
14s. 2d. as compared with 13s. 10d. in dressmaking shops, the average in
tailoring factories is 12s. 11d. as compared with 15s. 5d. in dressmaking
factories.
Since the statistics were compiled minimum rates have been fixed under the
Trade Boards Act to apply to the ready-made and wholesale bespoke sections
of the tailoring trade, and there is no doubt that with the minimum rate
of 3-1/4d.[54] an hour, fixed for Great Britain, statistics relating to
the present time would show a marked improvement on those relating to
1906, since a _minimum_ rate of 3-1/4d. probably implies in most cases an
average rate of 3-1/2d. or even 3-3/4d. Moreover, on the testimony of
employers themselves the introduction of a minimum rate has had a
stimulating effect on the trade, bringing about on the part of employers a
vigilance and alacrity to make improvements in organisation, which have
had an effect on the efficiency of the workers and consequently on their
earnings, so that in many cases the Trade Board minimum has become merely
a historical landmark left behind on a road of steady progress.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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