Women of America: Woman: In all ages and in all countries Vol. 10 (of 10)Larus, John Ruse
History
Women of America: Woman: In all ages and in all countries Vol. 10 (of 10)
Larus, John Ruse
Women -- America -- History; Women -- United States -- History
"We can gain some notion of the general shape of the dress of our
forbears at various periods from the portraits of the times. Those of
Madam Shrimpton and of Rebecca Rawson are among the earliest. They were
painted during the last quarter of the seventeenth century. The dress is
not very graceful, but far from plain, showing no trace of Puritanical
simplicity; in fact, it is precisely that seen in portraits of English
well-to-do folk of the same date. Both have strings of beads around the
neck and no other jewels; both wear loosely tied and rather shapeless
flat hoods concealing the hair, Madam Shrimpton's having an embroidered
edge about two inches wide. Similar hoods are shown in Remain de Rooge
prints of the landing of King William, of the women in the coronation
procession. They were like the Nithesdale hoods of Hogarth's prints, but
smaller. Both New England dames have also broad collars, stiff and ugly,
with uncurved horizontal lower edge, apparently trimmed with embroidery
or cut-work. Both show the wooden contour of figure which was either the
fault of the artist or of the iron busk of the wearer's stays. The
bodies are stiffly pointed, and the most noticeable feature of the gown
is the sleeve, consisting of a double puff drawn in just above the
elbow; in one case with very narrow ribbon loops. Randle Holme says that
a sleeve thus tied in at the elbow was called a virago sleeve.
Madam Shrimpton's sleeve has also a falling frill of embroidery and lace
and a ruffle around the armsize. The question of sleeves sorely vexed
the colonial magistrates. Men and women were forbidden to have but one
slash or opening in each sleeve. Then the inordinate width of sleeves
became equally trying, and all were ordered to restrain themselves to
sleeves half an ell wide. Worse modes were to come: 'short sleeves
whereby the nakedness of the arm may be discovered' had to be
prohibited; and if any such ill-fashioned gowns came over from London,
the owners were enjoined to wear thick linen to cover the arms to the
wrist. Existing portraits show how futile were these precautions, how
inoperative these laws; arms were bared with impunity, with complacency,
and the presentment of Governor Wentworth shows three slashes in the
sleeves.
"Not only were the arms of New England women bared to an immodest
degree, but their necks also, calling forth many a 'just and seasonable
reprehension of naked breasts.' Though gowns thus cut in the pink of the
English mode proved too scanty to suit Puritan ministers, the fair
wearers wore them as long as they were in vogue.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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