Dress in India can be comprised within a few typical forms. Fashion,
which in Europe is so frequently variable and occupies itself with
line and contour, is in India far more stable and persistent. Fashion
exists, of course, as in every land where women live and grow and
change. But it busies itself rather with what may be called the
accidents than with the essentials of attire. In the choice of colour
the women of India display a rich variety; and selection, though less
subject to sudden and violent alteration, is governed by those moods of
temperament which are generalized under the name of fashion. No less
operative is changing temperament upon the designs of jewelry and the
choice of gems to set in gold. Even in respect of the textures which
women choose for their clothes, there are collective changes of mood
and mode to be noticed. But in point of dress and adornment, as in most
other activities, in India there is a governance by authority and a
quasi-religious sanction which is foreign to the strongly individualist
tempers of the West. The shapes and to some extent even the colour of
dress and the design and manner of wearing jewelry are among those
distinctive marks of social rank and ceremonial purity, in a word of
caste, which are guarded jealously as if almost sacrosanct. It is only
in the additions and embellishments permitted upon the normal habits
of the caste that the human personality finds room for self-display. A
woman must first of all make her dress conform to the approved habits
of her class. That done, she is free to express her own tastes and
talents within the range of such permissible colours and superfluous
ornaments as do not alter the essential lines of her costume.
The interest of dress centres mainly upon the human psychology of
which it is one among many other expressions. And it is not a little
surprising that this inner and living bond has so often escaped the
writers who have made costume their subject. Dress, regarded as form
and colour only, has no doubt its own value to the painter. Like
every arrangement in which selected hues or lines are grouped for the
creation of a new beauty, it has an emotional appeal apart from its
meaning or history. The uses of drapery in sculpture and the sensuous
pleasure given by rich velvets and gold brocades in the paintings of
Titian or Veronese are instances of the fascination of clothes, merely
on their decorative side. But an intenser interest comes to being when
dress is known to be also the expression of a character that in one
sense may be called individual but may with more reality be regarded as
part of a vast national life.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
Reviews
Reviews
No reviews yet
Be the first to share your thoughts on this work.
Elsewhere in the archive
Join the Discussion
Join the discussion
Sign in to leave a comment or review.
Sign InorCreate an account