It is a long leg and a short one out of the harbour, and you get a
heavy puff now and again from over the high land that brings your
lee-rail level with the water, and makes you luff in a hurry. Three or
four tacks bring you to the headlands of the bay, and as you stand out
from under the weather-shore you begin to feel the real wind and sea.
There is plenty of both, and you have to do all you know with tiller
and sheet to negotiate the big seas that roll up on the weather-bow
and to keep the lee-gunwale out of the water at the same time. It is
just a little more than you can manage. A couple of steep combers
that you have to luff up to knock all the way out of the boat and make
her stagger; the next sea throws her head off the wind, while at the
same time a heavy puff forces her lee-side under water. You put the
helm down, but she has had no time to gather much way, and is slow
coming to; you are forced to let go the sheet, but she has taken a
good drop on board before she comes up, and there are more big seas
coming. 'It won't do,' you say to your mate; 'we must have another
reef in.' So you drop your peak, and wear, and run back under the
shelter of the point, and take your third reef down. Then you stand
out and try again; and it is wonderful what a difference the reduction
of canvas has made. She stands well up, and rides beautifully over the
big seas, hardly shipping a cupful of water as she rears up and lets
them pass under her. It is an art, if a simple one, steering a boat to
windward in a big sea. You have to put her almost straight at the
worst seas, and yet you must never let her lose way, or she will fall
off broadside to the sea, and perhaps be too 'sick' to come to again
in time to prevent a vicious wave from breaking on board or capsizing
her. And there are few things more exhilarating. Every big sea
successfully surmounted is a triumph in itself, and the winning of
ground to windward foot by foot against wind and sea feels like an
arduous but steadily victorious struggle against a sturdy foe.
And now you find you can weather the island, and, choosing a 'smooth,'
go about for the last time. If the seas breaking on it looked fine
from the yacht nearly three miles off, they look awe-inspiring now
close under your lee with their roar thundering in your ears. Now you
are no longer riding head first over the seas, but running free at a
slashing pace, sheet in hand, watching the sea narrowly over your
shoulder, ready to luff instantly if some specially dangerous monster
should make it necessary.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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