Howells, William Dean, 1837-1920 -- Childhood and youth
No fact of my leaving home upon the occasion which I must have felt so
tremendous remains with me. I cannot even say whether it was through the
snow or the mud that we drove ten miles from the county-seat to the
railroad station at Ashtabula; whatever the going, it was over the
warped and broken boards of the ancient plank-road which made any
transit possible in that region of snow and mud, and remained till
literally worn away even in the conception of the toll-taker. Without
intervening event, so far as my memory testifies, or circumstance, any
more than if we had flown through the air, we were there in Columbus
together, living in an old-fashioned hotel on the northward stretch of
High Street, which was then the principal business street, and for
anything I know is so yet. The hotel was important to the eye of our
village strangeness, but it was perhaps temperamentally of the sort of
comfortable taverns which the hotels had come to displace. My father had
gone to live there because he knew it from our brief sojourn when we
came to the city from the country five or six years before, and because
it was better suited to his means; but one of the vividest impressions
of his youth had been the building of the National Road, a work so
monumental for the new country it traversed, and he poetically valued
the Goodale House for facing upon this road, which in its course from
Baltimore to St. Louis became High Street in Columbus.
Not even in this association could it be equaled with the Neil House,
then the finest hotel in the West, without a peer even in Cincinnati.
Dickens, in his apparently unreasoned wanderings, paused in it over a
day, and admired its finish in black-walnut, the wood that came
afterward to be so precious for the ugliest furniture ever made. All
visitors of distinction sojourned there, and it was the resort of the
great politicians who held their conclaves in its gloomy corridors and
in its office and bar on the eve of nominating conventions or the
approach of general elections. I have a vision, which may be too fond,
of their sitting under its porches in tilted arm-chairs as the weather
softened, canvassing the civic affairs which might not have been brought
to a happy issue without them. But however misled I may be in this I
cannot err in my vision of the stately conflagration which went up with
the hotel one windless night, a mighty front of flame hooded with somber
smoke. I watched it with a vast crowd from the steps of the State House
which it was worthier to face than any other edifice of the little city;
but this was long after that winter of ours in the Goodale House, which
I remember for the boundless abundance of its table and for those
society events which on Saturday nights crowned the week.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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