The road was forced to the very edge of the bank. The river became
mildly excited, as if in protest at the constriction. The road grew
wilder and the landscape more rugged; and suddenly, the river, tortured
by the pressure of the narrow trench provided for it, began raging and
foaming, and sending up a hoarse roar, which grew upon them like an
approaching tempest. The road trod first a narrow shelf above the
terrific rapids, and then a bridge hung like a stretched rope over an
awesome abyss. For half a mile the tumult below grew, until it seemed as
if water could bear no more--when suddenly the river, just now ravening
through a mere fifty-foot crack in the rocks, was gone. It turned
abruptly away from the road, and fell away into space. They had passed
the Upper Falls, where the Yellowstone, in a great spouting curve drops
a sheer hundred and twelve feet in a curtain of white water, and sends
up from the bottom of the cañon its hymn to liberty, in a cloud of mist.
They were no longer the tired sight-seers, with jaded senses; for this
was new. They felt the thrill of power. And as they passed on, promising
themselves a return when camp should be made, they cried out in delight
as the Grand Cañon of the Yellowstone displayed the stupendous sluiceway
into which the river had fallen. At their feet the lovely Crystal Falls
of Cascade Creek played exquisitely, almost unnoted. The roar of the
falls followed them to the Cañon Hotel near which they camped, and
leaving the pitching of the tents to the men, they walked to the brink
of the cañon, and gazed upon the most perfect scene, perhaps, that
water, in its flow to the sea, has anywhere sculptured and painted to
delight the eye of man. The Yosemite has greater heights; the Colorado
offers huger dimensions, the Niagara or the Victoria possess mightier
cataracts; but nowhere else is there such a riot of color, such dizzy
heights, such glooming verdure, and such mad waters, united in one
surpassingly splendid scenic whole.
They saw it all--that day, and subsequent days. They lingered as though
unable to leave at all. They revisited the Upper Falls before seeing the
lower, so as to view them in fairness and with no injustice to what
seemed unsurpassable beauty.
"And now," said the Bride, "take me to the greater falls."
It was as if she had seen all but the Holy of Holies, and felt the
exaltation suitable for higher things.
They were amazed at the tremendous plunge of more than three hundred
feet which their river (as they now called it) made at the Lower
Falls--even to the foot of which they descended. They looked from
Inspiration Point, from Artist's Point, from Lookout Point. They watched
the stream dwarfed by distance to a trickle, and strangely silent, as it
wandered at the bottom of the gorge.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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