On descending to the isolated little pueblo, we got accommodation in the best house of the place, belonging to the native Governor, and adjourned for rest and refreshments. All we had left to eat in our baskets were two cold chickens, three biscuits, and four bottles of soda. We sent out for more food, and in half an hour a boy came back with the only articles that the market afforded--two cocoanuts. The house in which we were seemed to be the only one in town that possessed a chair, and, as it was, we found it more comfortable to sit on the floor. This was the centre of the great hunting-district, and all around in the hills and mountains deer and wild boar were abundant. During the following night it got so cold that it was possible to see one's breath, and without coverings as we were, the whole party dreamed of arctic circles and polar bears. At daylight next morning, numb with the cold, we sat down to a breakfast consisting of carabao milk and hard bread made of pounded-rice flour, and felt pretty fairly well removed from tropics and civilization. The old church, which we could see out of the window, stood in a small plaza, and the steeple, which consisted of four tall posts covered by a small roof of thatch that protected a group of bells from the morning dew, was off by itself in a corner of the churchyard. A long clothes-line seemed to lead from the bells to a native house across the street, and we learned that the sexton was accustomed to lie in bed and ring the early morning chimes by wagging his right foot, to which the string was attached. On the return trip we met a large party of hunters coming up from Manila for a week's deer-shooting, and by noon got back to Antipolo, where we rested in the police-station to wait for our carromatas that were to arrive at one o'clock. The return to Cainta was as hot and dusty as the advance, but we were pleasantly received by our friend the governor, who had instructed the "boys" to have the refreshments ready for us. Later in the afternoon, we prepared to return to the metropolis, and the whole village came down to see us off. The governor refused to accept money for the use of his house, we were all invited to come again, and amid a chorus of cheers we shoved off for Manila. The row down took only three hours, but on getting to the club, at moonrise, it seemed as if we had been away three weeks. X Exacting Harbor Regulations--The Eleanor takes French Leave--Loss of the Gravina--Something about the Native Ladies--Ways of Native Servants--A Sculptor who was a Dentist--Across the Bay to Orani--Children in Plenty--A Public Execution by the Garrote. April 19th.