Yesterdays in the PhilippinesStevens, Joseph Earle
History
Yesterdays in the Philippines
Stevens, Joseph Earle
Philippines -- Description and travel
Here we are, eight days out from Manila, steaming up through that
far-famed inland sea of Japan, on the good ship Coptic, bound for San
Francisco; and for the life of me those twenty-four moons just passed
all seem to huddle into yesterday. Surely it was only the day before
that the China was taking me and my trunks the other way. And so it
takes but eight short days of new experiences, new food, new air,
to efface completely the effect of seven hundred yesterdays in the
Philippines. Those whole seven hundred seem now as but one, and when
I think of all the housekeeping, the bookkeeping, the hemp-pressing,
and the cheerful putting up with all sorts of things, they all seem
to be playing leapfrog with each other in the dream of a night,
and I wake up to find the pines of Japan lending a certain cordial
to the air that is very grateful. We never knew what we were missing
in Manila in the slight matter of eating alone until we got over to
Hong Kong again, and it is perhaps just as well we didn't. To think
of the "dead hen," as they call it, and rice, the daily couple of
eggs, the fried potatoes, and the banana-fritters on which we have
tried to fatten our frames, and then look at the bill of fare on the
Coptic! We exiles from Manila have gained over five pounds in these
eight days, and would almost go through another two years in the
haunts of heathendom for the sake of again living through a sundry
few days like the past eight, in which the inner man wakes up to
see his opportunities, and makes up for lost time on soups that are
not all rice and water, on fish that is not fishy, on chickens that
are not boiled almost alive, on roasts that taste not of garlic,
on vegetables that are something more than potatoes, on butter that
is not axle-grease, and on puddings and pies that are not made of
chopped blotting paper and flavored with pomatum sauces.
An exuberance of spirit must be forgiven, for so welcome is the change
from the old cultivated Manila contentment that the present burst of
native enthusiasm is but natural. Not that I am playing false to the
Malay capital--for let it be said that when once you have forgotten
the good things at home the articles which that Pearl of the Orient
had to furnish went well enough indeed--but that after schooling one's
taste to things of low degree it is peculiarly melodramatic to return
to things of high estate.
Our send-off from Manila on the 14th was as gay as the sad occasion
could warrant, and several launch-loads of the "bosses and the boys"
worried out to bid us a last adios. The Esmeralda was to have the honor
of taking us away from the place to which she had brought us, and I
was thoroughly prepared to go through the interesting process that was
needed finally to straighten me out after the peculiar twisting which
the voyage from Manila to Hong Kong had given me two years before.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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