Yesterdays in the PhilippinesStevens, Joseph Earle
History
Yesterdays in the Philippines
Stevens, Joseph Earle
Philippines -- Description and travel
So, late on Saturday afternoon, we went aboard a dirty little steamer,
which was to take us ninety miles down the coast. She wasn't as big
as a good-sized tug and was laden with multicolored natives, who were
on their way back to the provinces after a brief shopping expedition
to the capital. We were soon sailing out past the fleet of larger
vessels in the Bay, with our dull prow pointed to the mouth of the
great inclosed body of water. At nightfall we reached the Corregidor
light-house, at the Bay's entrance, and thence our course lay to
the south. At half-past two that night our craft reached a place
called Taal. During our trip down we had become acquainted with a
very pleasant Indian sugar-planter, who is as well off in dollars
as rich in hospitality. At Taal he took us to one of the three big
houses he owns, and, although only three o'clock in the morning,
gave us a delicious breakfast. We talked and chatted away comfortably,
and as the first streaks of dawn appeared I played several appropriate
selections on one of the two very good-toned pianos belonging to his
establishment. This brought out his family, and before we set out
for the river from which our start to the volcano was to be made,
quite a social gathering was in progress.
The natives all through the islands seemed indeed most courteous
and hospitable to foreigners, and although a Spaniard hesitates to
show his face outside of any of the garrison towns, yet any of the
other European bipeds is known in a minute and well treated. Our
good friend at Taal went so far as to harness up a pair of ponies
and drive us down to the river at four o'clock in the morning, and
we found a large banca, previously ordered, waiting to take us up to
the Lake of Taal and across to the volcano.
Our banca was of good size, was rowed by seven men and steered by one,
and had a little thatched hen-coop arrangement over the stern, to keep
the sun off our heads. We had brought one "boy" with us from Manila,
with enough "chow" to last for two days, and soon all was stowed
away in our floating tree-trunk. The river was shallow, and for most
of the six miles of its length poles were the motive-power. It was
slow work, and both wind and current were hostile. In due course,
however, the lake came into view, and in its centre rose the volcano,
smoking away like a true Filipino. The wind was now blowing strong
and unfavorable, and we saw that it was not going to be an easy row
across the six or seven miles of open water to the centre island. But
the men worked with a will, and although the choppy waves slopped over
into our roost once or twice so jocosely that it almost seemed as if
we should have to turn back, we kept on. Benefitting by a lull or two,
our progress was gradual, and at half after twelve, seven hours from
Taal, we landed on the volcanic island and prepared for an ascent.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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