Yesterdays in the PhilippinesStevens, Joseph Earle
History
Yesterdays in the Philippines
Stevens, Joseph Earle
Philippines -- Description and travel
The floor of our room was of bamboo slats, just below whose many
openings were four fighting-cocks and when bed-time came we were tired
enough to tumble down on the canes just as we stood. The cock who sang
out of tune woke us at about sunrise Tuesday morning, and after one
more swim in the lake we packed up our traps and prepared ourselves
to take the little Manila steamer that left at eight o'clock on its
thirty-mile return trip. The sail down the lake and into the Pasig
River was cool, delightful, and without incident, and at noon Tuesday
we pulled up at the wharf at Manila, having completed an almost perfect
circle of travel one hundred and fifty miles in circumference, to be
heartily congratulated on having successfully made a trip which few
perform but many covet. My own cane sleeping machine seemed good again
after hen-coops and bamboo floors, and smooth roads and civilization
far better than ruts and rickety carromatas.
VI
First Storm of the Rainy Season--Fourth of July--Chinese "Chow"
Dogs--Crullers and Pie and a Chinese Cook--A Red-Letter Day--The
China-Japan War--Manila Newspapers--General Blanco and the
Archbishop--An American Fire-Engine and its Lively Trial--The
Coming of the Typhoon--Violence of the Wind--The Floods
Next--Manila Monotony.
July 4th.
The mails have been badly snarled up lately, and although nobody
has received any letters for nearly two weeks, none are expected
for about ten days. The other morning began the first real storm
of the rainy season, and we came very near having a bad typhoon,
but someone turned the switch, and it swirled up the back coast on
the Pacific side and crossed through a notch in the mountains, some
distance to the north of Manila, giving the city only four days of
monstrous winds and floods of rain. The streets were two feet deep
with water in the business section, and down at our house by the
sea the wind blew so hard that it carried the tin from our roof off
to visit the next suburb. Then it was that those sturdy windows of
small sea-shells set into hardwood lattice seemed far more secure
than glass, and I doubt if anything less well constructed would have
stood the blast that surged in from the broad bay.
Going downtown in the morning, my carriage was slid clean across the
road by the force of the wind, and once it seemed as if I might be
lifted up into the low clouds that scudded close to the tops of the
bamboo-trees. Huge seas came tumbling ashore on the beach, and the
vessels in the great exposed Bay had all they could do to hang to their
anchors, as the surf sometimes dashed as high as their lower foreyards.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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