Yesterdays in the PhilippinesStevens, Joseph Earle
History
Yesterdays in the Philippines
Stevens, Joseph Earle
Philippines -- Description and travel
It almost seems as if each week in the calendar brought in a religious
display of some sort in some one part of the town, and every Sunday
evening finds a big church somewhere blazing with light or a street
blinking with candles.
November 13th.
The Monday after the departure of the monthly direct mail from Manila
to the Peninsula is always devoted to our old friend "bank-holiday,"
and all the foreign merchants close their doors. This event occurred
the first of this week, and on Saturday afternoon last some of the
more energetic of us, deciding to take another little outing into the
hills, started up the river on a small launch, bound for the big lake
at the foot of the mountains. A drizzling rain was falling and the
weather did not look propitious, but we pushed on, left the mouth of
the river where the lake empties into it, and sallied out on the broad
waters of the Laguna de Bay. Numerous serving-boys, boxes of china,
food, ice, and bedding ballasted the stern of our little steamer,
and as it grew dark a feast was prepared for us on deck. In going up
the lake, the pilot, who was accustomed only to navigating the launch
along the quays of Manila itself, got quite at sea and lost his way in
the evening mist. Some of us, however, more nautical than the rest,
procured a chart, consulted a compass which the native mariner in
his stupidity chose utterly to disregard, and by dint of perseverance
brought the frail bark back into her proper course, without further
mishap than running through a series of fish-weirs.
We anchored near a little settlement, Los Baños, shortly before
midnight. The deck planking did not make a soft bed, but nevertheless
the snoring soon became hard likewise, and Sunday morning found us
refreshed by the bracing air of the provinces. The rain had cleared
away, and after an early breakfast the pilot ran the launch slowly
ashore on a smooth beach, beneath a high bank fringed with bamboo. The
gang-plank was run out, and several of our little party started off
with guns to get some duck, snipe, and pigeons, which were plentiful
in the jungle beyond.
Those of us who were left, with a couple of native guides, climbed
up the steep slopes of an extinct volcano to explore a so-called
"Enchanted Lake" that occupied the low crater. The way led past several
ponds filled to overflowing with pink pond-lilies, and, as we wound
up along the rising knolls, the air was as fragrant as that of a
greenhouse. Then came a short climb which brought us to the crater's
edge. The Enchanted Lake lay like a mirror below, and the rich foliage
all about was almost perfectly reflected in the still, green water.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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