When we have determined to see what these ‘sights’ have to offer, we
find that the inn is a fairly picturesque one, but with scarcely a
quarter of the interest of the old chemist’s shop we saw in the
market-place. The walk along the river bank among a fine growth of
beeches is pleasant enough, and would be enjoyable if it were not for
the fact that it leads to a ‘sight’ which has to be paid for. Under the
overhanging edge of the limestone crag hang a row of eccentric objects
constantly under the dripping water that trickles down the face of the
rock, which is itself formed entirely by the petrifying action of the
spring some yards away from the river. The water being strongly charged
with lime, everything within its reach, including the row of
‘curiosities’ in course of manufacture, are coated over and finally
reduced to limestone, the process taking about two years. When we have
come away from the well we feel we have seen all the sights we are equal
to, and gladly leave St. Robert’s Chapel and the other caves to be seen
at some more convenient season. The story of Eugene Aram and the murder
of Daniel Clark is a page in the history of Knaresborough that may
perhaps add interest to the town, but it is certainly likely to rob the
place of some of its charm, so without wasting any time on a visit to
the cave where the murdered man’s body was buried, we go out on the road
to Harrogate.
The distance between the towns is short, and soon after passing Starbeck
we come to Harrogate’s extensive common known as the Stray. We follow
the grassy space, when it takes a sharp turn to the north, and are soon
in the centre of the great watering-place. Among the buildings that rise
up in imposing masses on each side of us we can see no traces of
anything that is not of recent date, and we find nothing at all to
suggest that the place really belongs to Yorkshire.
Walking or being pulled in bath-chairs along the carefully-made paths
are all sorts and conditions of invalids, and interspersed among them
are numbers of people who, if they have any ailments curable by the
waters, are either in very advanced stages of convalescence or are
extremely expert in hiding any traces of ill-health.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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