Zanzibar; city, island, and coast. Vol. 1 (of 2)Burton, Richard Francis, Sir
History
Zanzibar; city, island, and coast. Vol. 1 (of 2)
Burton, Richard Francis, Sir
Africa, East -- Description and travel; Ethnology -- Tanzania -- Zanzibar; Zanzibar -- Description and travel
The Malagash Quarter is at the far east of the city, leading to two
tumble-down bridges which span a lagoon more deadly than that of British
Accra. These ruins might easily be converted into dykes, and in process
of time the mouth would be sanded or silted up; they are however, fated
to make way for iron improvements. In my day the lagoon was connected by
fresh water with the sea, and became now a muddy pool at the ebb tides
of the Syzygies, then a sheet of festering mud which nearly encircled
the settlement, and which converted the site of Zanzibar city into a
quasi-island. Every evening a pestilent sepulchral miasma arose from it,
covering the skin with a clammy sweat, and exhaling a fetor which caused
candles to burn dim, and which changed the sound of the human voice.
Lazy skippers anchoring here for facility of watering, thus exposing
their men to the breath of the fetid lagoon, have lost in a few days
half the crew; and although the water appeared to be of the purest, it
became so offensive that often the casks had to be started.
We then passed over a sandy flat, thinly powdered with black vegetable
humus. To the left was a creek upon whose sandy beach vessels are hauled
up, and where ships of 300 to 400 tons can be safely careened: in a few
years there will here be a dock. A mile of neat footpath placed us at
the late Sayyid’s Summer Palace, Mto-ni, which is distant about three
direct miles from the Consulate. After escaping the unpleasant
attentions bestowed upon us by the tame ostriches, who are apt to use
beak and wing, we dismounted for inspection. The building is of coral
rag, pierced with square windows, and the wings are united by a
verandah-terrace, supported by wooden pillars, and facing Meccah, for
convenience of prayer. A few feet above the centre is the peaked roof of
the Kiosk, which makes the place remarkable to crews entering the
harbour. In front floats from sunrise to sunset the red flag of the
Sayyid: the rear is brought up by a small cemetery, sundry offices, and
lowly cajan-thatched hovels tenanted by slaves. The work of man is mean
enough, but it is surrounded by the noblest handiwork of Nature, cocoas
and mangoes, whilst the borders of the little stream could be
beautifully laid out.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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