Zanzibar; city, island, and coast. Vol. 1 (of 2)Burton, Richard Francis, Sir
History
Zanzibar; city, island, and coast. Vol. 1 (of 2)
Burton, Richard Francis, Sir
Africa, East -- Description and travel; Ethnology -- Tanzania -- Zanzibar; Zanzibar -- Description and travel
During the ’Id Saghir or Kuchuk Bayram, here called Siku-khu za Ídí,
‘One Cocoa-nut Tree’ is a lively place. Whilst the boys sing and dance
about the streets, and the garrison blacks, armed with sabres, engage
near the fort in a Zumo or Pyrrhic, wildly waving their tremulous
blades, and the Wahiao or Bozals from about Kilwa execute their
saltations near the bridge, and the other slaves carouse and junket in
their own quarter of the town, each clan from the mainland keeping
itself distinct, the grandees, fingering their rosaries and supported by
long staves, proceed to Mnazi Moyya, where gallops, called races, form
the attraction. About half-a-dozen garrons, rushing wildly about,
represent the performers, and the performance is nothing new to the
Anglo-Indian. The groups are motley if not picturesque. Here and there,
surrounded by rings of sable admirers, are women boisterously singing
and clapping hands, dancing and acting lionnes with all their might.
Tremendous are the Vijelejele, the Kil, Zaghárit, or trilling of the
spectatresses. Men also stamp and wriggle in a rude ‘improper’ style to
the succedaneum for a drum, a hollow wooden cylinder one foot in
diameter, with the open end applied to the breast, and the dried and
stretched snake-skin patted upon with finger and palm. Most of these
people, regardless of fever or cholera, are primed with fermented cocoa
juice. The heavily-clad Shaykhs, bestriding their asses, are preceded by
outrunners, who mercilessly push aside and ‘bakur’ the crowd; and the
latter turn viciously as bull-terriers. There is not much striking, but
jostling and thrusting away are the rules. At Lamu and the wilder places
swords and daggers are often bared on these occasions, and the Shaykhs
have no little trouble to preserve the peace. Contrasting with the full-
dressed crowd are the naked children, who seem all afflicted with
umbilical hernia. This is the result of careless cutting, but the
unsightly protuberance will wear away in after life, and a pot-belly is
here, as elsewhere in Africa, looked upon as a good sign. The negro
faces and bodies are marked with the tattoo in almost every possible
fashion; some wear straight black lines, others curved; these have
perpendicular, those horizontal marks, and not a few wear painted
squares with central spots, like the wafers upon the garment of the old
country clown. At length the princes make their appearance, and are
received with a file-firing of guns and pistols, whilst shouts and drums
disturb the air; the races are formally run, and the crowd disperses
through the unclean streets of the city.
There is still some exploration to be done on the west or landward front
of Zanzibar Island. Colonel Hamerton, however, strongly advises us not
to risk fever, and to reserve every atom of strength and energy for the
Continent.
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Footnote 95:
Tchakazi, espèce de gomme-résine, dont j’ignore l’origine (M.
Guillain, Part II. p. 87).
Footnote 96:
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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