Zanzibar; city, island, and coast. Vol. 1 (of 2)Burton, Richard Francis, Sir
History
Zanzibar; city, island, and coast. Vol. 1 (of 2)
Burton, Richard Francis, Sir
Africa, East -- Description and travel; Ethnology -- Tanzania -- Zanzibar; Zanzibar -- Description and travel
Respectable Wasawahili dress like Arabs in ‘Kofíyya,’ here meaning red
caps, and the long Disdashah, or night-gown; the loins are girt with a
‘Kamarband’-shawl, and sandals protect the feet. Others are contented
with the Hammam-toilette, waist-cloth (Shukkah or Tanga) and shoulder-
sheets (Izár), always adorned with the favourite fringe (Tambúa or
Taraza). This is at once the simplest and one of the most ancient of
attires; the plate from Montfaucon’s Cosmas Indicopleustes (1706,
Topographia Christiana) reproduced by Vincent (Periplus, Appendix, part
I.) shows the kilt to have been the general dress of the ancient
Æthiopians, as the spear was their weapon. Before superiors they bare
the shaven poll, an un-Oriental custom probably learned from the
Portuguese. As amongst the Arab Bedawin, the Syrian Rayahs, and the
Persian Iliyat, the women mostly go abroad unveiled. The ‘Murungawánah,’
or freeborn, however, is distinguished out-of-doors by her rude
mantilla, and ‘ladies’ affect an Ukaya, or fillet of indigo-dyed cotton,
or muslin, somewhat like that of the Somal and the Syrians. The feminine
garb is a Kisitu, or length of stained cotton, blue and red being the
pet colours. It resembles the Kitambi of the Malagash, and it is the
nearest approach to the primitive African kilt of skin or tree bark.
Wrapped tightly round the unsupported bosom, and extending from the
armpits to the heels, this ungraceful garb depresses the breast, spoils
the figure, and conceals nothing of its deficiencies. The hair, like the
body, drips with unfragrant cocoa-nut oil; and though there is not much
material to work upon, it is worked in various fanciful styles. Many
shave clean; some wear a half-crop, like a skull-cap of Astracan wool;
others a full-grown bush covering the whole head. These part it down the
middle, with an asinine cross over the regions of veneration; those draw
longitudinal lines above the ears, making a threefold parting; there are
also garnishings and outworks of stunted pigtails, forming stiff and
savage accroche-cœurs. Two peculiar coiffures at once attract the
stranger’s eye. One makes the head look as if split into a pair of
peaks, the side hair being raised from sinciput to occiput in tall
double unpadded rolls, parted by a deep central hollow: this style is
nowhere so pronounced as near the Gaboon river, where the heads of the
Mpongwe girls appear short-horned. The other consists of frizzly twists
trained lengthwise from nape to brow, and the whitish etiolated scalp
showing itself between the lines as though the razor had been used: the
stripes suggest the sections of a musk-melon or the meridians of a map.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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