Zanzibar; city, island, and coast. Vol. 1 (of 2)Burton, Richard Francis, Sir
History
Zanzibar; city, island, and coast. Vol. 1 (of 2)
Burton, Richard Francis, Sir
Africa, East -- Description and travel; Ethnology -- Tanzania -- Zanzibar; Zanzibar -- Description and travel
Passing over the modern sea-beach, with its coarse grasses, creepers,
and wild flowers—mostly the Ipomæa—and backed by towering trees, cocoas,
mangos, and figs, we often observe in the interior distinct traces of an
old elevation, marked by lines of water-worn pebbles and by coarse
gravels overlying greasy blue clay. This is the home of the copal.
Beyond it the land rises imperceptibly, and breaks into curves, swells,
and small ravines, rain-cut and bush-grown, sometimes 40 feet deep. The
soil is now a retentive red or yellow argile, based upon a detritus of
coralline, hardened, where pressed, into the semblance of limestone, or
upon a friable sand-stone-grit of quartz and silex. The humus of the
richest vegetable substance, and excited by the excess of humidity and
heat, produces in abundance maize, millet, and various panicums;
tomatoes and naturalized vegetables, muhogo (the cassava), and Palma
Christi; coffee, cotton, and sugar-cane; clove, nutmeg, and cinnamon
trees; foreign fruits, like the Brazilian Cajú, the passion-flower and
the pine-apple; the Chinese Leechi; bananas and guavas, the Raphia and
the cocoa, twin queens of the palms; limes and lemons, oranges and
shaddocks, the tall tamarind, the graceful Areca, the grotesque calabash
and Jack-tree, colossal sycamores and mangos, whose domes of densest
verdure, often 60 feet high and bending, fruit-laden, to the earth, make
our chesnuts, when in fullest dress, look half-naked and in rags.
The uplands, especially in the western part of the island, are laid out
in Máshámha or plantations, whose regular lines of untrimmed clove-trees
are divided by broad sunny avenues. Here and there are depressions in
the soil, where heavy rains slowly sinking have nursed a tangled growth
of reeds and rushes, sedge and water-grass. About the Mohayra and the
Búbúbú—the principal of the ποταμοι πλειστοι of the Periplus—mere
surface-drains, choked with fat juncaceæ and with sugar-cane growing
wild, there is a black soil of prodigious fertility, whose produce may,
so to speak, be seen to grow. This sounds like exaggeration; but I well
remember, at Hyderabad, in Sind, that during the inundation of the Indus
we could perceive in the morning that the maize had lengthened during
the night, and the same is the case with certain ‘toadstools’ and fungi
in the Brazil.
Upon this waste of rank vegetation the sun darts an oppressive and
malignant beam. In the driest season the ‘mangrove heaviness’ of the
western coast and the cadaverous fœtor announce miasma; after the rains
the landscape is redolent of disease and death.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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